It is rare, but when it all comes together it is beautiful. San Francisco is one of the few places where as you get closer to the Ocean the real estate prices drop. It takes a special type of person to weather the thick fog, harsh winds, and damp cold. As a surfer, it is the only place I would want to be. The smell of the ocean and the roar of the waves at night is what makes me feel alive. People often question those who live out here and when you say you live in the Outer Sunset they say, oh you must surf.
And I say, YES I DO! Ocean Beach is not all fog though, the locals will tell you that when it all comes together those few times a year it makes all those other cold onshore windy days worth every bone chilling bit.
75 degrees in November. Not bad at all. Everyone was out at the beach enjoying the beautiful weather and warm offshore winds that groomed the overhead surf. Here is a guy on one of the little insiders.
Saturday was a bit more full and had some size and mass in the morning, whereas today was just firing. a little smaller with more time in between sets, but just rifling lefts and rights with definate cover up potential.
You could even get away with a bikini it was so nice.
I surfed three hours in the morning and got some of my best waves out at OB. I had a couple lefts that were all time. I was able to link about three big top turns on one fast little wedge that had me giddy by the time I kicked out.
Another one that stood out was a right hander that I got into late and pulled in tight under the lip to have my hand skip across the face of the wave as I picked my line and drove for the shoulder finishing it off with a little slo mo cutty. I caught so many waves that towards the end of the session I could barely push myself up on a wave and keep from being catapulted into the flats. I know I wasn’t the only one. Why else would you turn your back on a wave like this.
Ocean Beach can get gnarly and certainly lives up to its reputation, but on weekends like this you forget all about it as the whole city comes out to enjoy one of the best things about living here in the City of San Francisco.
Going back to work with a bit of sun, sore muscles and a grin from ear to ear will keep me pacified until the next round of Bluebirds. Images like this will be branded in my mind as I think back on the spray taking the tops off and leaving a full circle rainbow in their wake. The pelicans surfing up and down the beach cruising effortlessly on the unridden swells and the numerous cracking barrels that I duck dove under.
With daylight saving time kicking in and the the extra hours to get wet during the week vanish my weekends will become more and more precious. These last 6 or so hours that I logged in the water will be the stuff that keeps me dreaming for more.