It’s the Bomb

eBomb

My last wetsuit was falling apart…literally. I had a big tear from the neck to the chest that I had repaired haphazardly with some wetsuit repair Goo, and the knee had a hole in it almost as big as my knee cap that would send a chilling rush into my nether regions as I entered the water. It was time for a new suit.

I wasn’t sure what to get but was going for price and knew that pretty much any suit these days is pretty killer. I remember some of the early suits and let me tell the youngins that we are sooo spoilt with all the new neoprene and blind stitching, glued, taped this and that.

The new Patagonia suits are pretty killer. They are super warm, made of sustainable materials etc. The price tag was the ultimate killer though. I just didn’t have it…and needed a new suit pronto. I checked O’neill as I knew that they were pretty solid…I even checked out a few of last years models. I found an Excel 4/3 that looked that it would do the trick, pretty straightforward and cheap. Then I stopped by the Hotline HQ and got sucked in by their $159 4/3 sale only to be disappointed in finding out that they were all sold out. I’ve never worn one, but they seem pretty simplistic. I like the rasta colored suits and wanted to support local.

On a whim I stopped by the Surf Outlet in Santa Cruz to check it out and see what kinds of goodies they had in stock. They turned out to be an outlet for Rip Curl suits…selling them at a fraction of the cost that you would find elsewhere. They had tons to choose from and they were coming in at a cool $200 for the new models which were atleast $100 cheaper than anything comparable around town. If it weren’t for the excellent salesmanship of the lady behind the counter, I might not have taken that bad boy home, but I couldn’t resist.

I picked up an XL Rip Curl eBomb without even trying it on. Just eyeballed it and with the sales gal’s help found what I thought would be a perfect fit. My last O’neill was a large tall, so this was a bit stockier but actually fit like a glove.

My first session in it was amazing. Entering the water I felt invincible, not a drop of water was able to penetrate. The O’neill had a bit of slack around the ankles and wrists and was a bit heavy in comparison. The XL eBomb I picked up had no slack what so ever. It was actually so tight that I was concerned I got too small a size. Those fears were easily squashed as I duck dove the cool overhead surf in complete bliss. I didn’t have to wear booties or a hood and I was hot. I had to dump water over my head to keep me cool.

I was throwing myself over the lips, doing backward flips and launching into the flats without getting flushed…it was a whole new experience.

Getting it on and off was a bit more difficult, but I think I’ve got it down now. I am worried that I might tear the suit cause its so lightweight and stretchy…so far so good. Its the best wetsuit I’ve ever had in terms of warmth, flexibility, and functionality.

The only complaint I have is that the neck is so high and tight that it can chafe you and leave you looking like someone tried to hang you or something. Other than that, I’m stoked on my new purchase and would recommend picking up one for the winter. Its got all the bells and whistles, good value, and it’ll make you surf like Mick Fanning. Future World Champ!!

Gar Bage by Andy Hughes …pronounced like you were French only he’s from Cornwall

Ball of Trash

Don’t you hate it when you think you have this brilliant idea and then you realize that someone has been doing it for much longer than you had the thought and probably much better than you could have done it. Yeah, me too. It happens alot.

When I was living in Taiwan you would come across these beautiful empty beaches without a soul in sight. They didn’t get your usual beachcombers walking up and down picking up shells and interesting rocks as in some of the more frequented locales.

By the way, Taiwan is the only place I’ve ever been to where they have shops devoted to selling rocks that you would find on the many cobble lined beaches of the East Coast. Yeah, Rock Shops… but thats a whole nother story.

In addition to the beautifully shaped rocks you would also find the most interesting garbage.

Happy New YearPlastic Bottle

I started photographing some of these pieces and wanted to eventually create a book showcasing some of this really weird and really cool stuff. From Doll heads, to weird plastic drums, to baby bottles, and all kinds of things you wouldn’t expect to see washed up on a beach. I still have those photos in boxes in the closet and will have to dig them out someday. Not incredibly spectacular, but interesting none the less.

Well, Andy Hughes, an artist from the seaside town of Cornwall in the U.K. has done a brilliant job of stealing my idea. Well not exactly, he has actually been capturing some of the beauty in this trash that floats ashore for probably much longer than I have had the idea and he has numerous awards and accolades to prove it. The images he captures are spectacular and his efforts and motivation stem from wanting to create awareness for what we dispose of and how and where it all will eventually end up.

Andy Hughes Lighter in the Sand

By turning this careless disposal into fine Art, he has hopefully awakened many and shed some light on what we as Surfers know all too well. Everything you throw away could end up in the Ocean.

Take care of our planet, be mindful of what you consume and how you consume it, and keep our planet blue and green and all the other colors that Andy has done such a fine job of representing in his work. He has a book too! Dominant Wave Theory. That Bastard! 🙂

PS…All images are courtesy of AndyHughes.net.

British Airways Surfboard Ban

Cornwall

Olaus at Marazion, Cornwall, UK – January 2007

Photo Courtesy SurfersPath.com

The International Surfing Association, ISA, and BluebirdSurf.com is shocked to learn of the British Airways (BA) ban on the carriage of surfboards (effective from 6th November) and supports the British Surfing Association’s petition to lobby the airline to reverse their decision. Like the British Surfing Association, the ISA is also urging all surfers to utilise a new members group on the social networking site Facebook, complain directly to British Airways and spread the word amongst other surfers. 

Karen Walton, National Director of the British Surfing Association says, “If everyone who surfs could take five minutes to go online and follow our recommended action steps then we will have a real representation of the swell of support for the reversal of this absurd decision. The Facebook site already has in excess of 1,000 members and lots of our members have been making complaints to BA. The British Surfing Association online petition means that people all over the world can add their support to our campaign and can add their personal comments about the issue. We will then be personally delivering the petition to the management at BA in the near future.”

Surfers are urged to take the following steps to help us lobby British Airways to reverse their decision:

1) Go onto www.britsurf.co.uk and click the ‘SIGN ONLINE PETITION OF PROTEST IN THE NEWS SECTION ON THE HOME PAGE’. Follow the easy steps to sign this online petition and add any comments.

2) If you have a Facebook account, join the Facebook ‘British Airways Surfboard Ban’ group

3) Click this link http://www.britishairways.com/travel/custrelform/public/en_gb and register a complaint with BA directly

4) Encourage all other surfers to follow these steps

 

More Information from the BBC:

 

The ban, due to start on 6 November, will include BA flights between London Gatwick and Newquay in Cornwall, one of the UK’s main surfing destinations.

BA says that “large size and handling complexities” mean it will no longer carry surfboards, hang-gliders, javelins, canoes and pole vaults.

Members of the Newquay-based British Surfing Association (BSA) have reacted with “disbelief and anger”.

We’d find it extremely hard to believe that the average Mini Mal (surfboard) would be more difficult to handle when compared to a double bass

Karen Walton, BSA

BA says on its website: “Due to the large size and handling complexities, some sporting equipment cannot be accommodated through the airport baggage system or within the aircraft hold.

“Therefore we no longer accept the following equipment at check-in as part of your sporting equipment allowance.”

Karen Walton, national director of the BSA, said the ban was “inexplicable”.

She said: “We’d find it extremely hard to believe that the average Mini Mal (surfboard) would be more difficult to handle when compared to a double bass and a full bag of golf clubs.”

She added that the ban would be bad news for the growing numbers of surfers travelling to destinations around the world.

Ms Walton also said that among those who would be disappointed were the British surfing teams, who have previously chosen BA “mostly as a result of their generally fair baggage policy”.

Ms Walton continued: “We therefore feel completely let down and angered by the news that our national airline is banning surfboards rather than following some other airlines and charging a supplementary fee.”

BA restarted its flights between Gatwick and Newquay in March after a three-year absence.

So leave your Javelins and Pole vaults at home guys next time you’re traveling.  Don’t even think about bringing one of those stand-up paddleboards…It ain’t gonna happen!

 

NorCal Lights Up

Lighting Up

NorCal and its lucky waveriders lit it up on the first swell of the season.

It started out on Friday night talking with my family about the plans for the weekend. We decided to take a spur of the moment weekend trip down the coast. Didn’t really have any plans but were excited for the forecasted warm weather and solid swell hitting on Saturday.

Woke up Saturday morning way too early and it was already shaping up to be a beautiful day. My son and I walked out to Ocean Beach to check the waves and it was a pretty good size…no one out and a lot of water moving. Not the best shape, but plenty of good swell. We packed up the car with boards, suits, and other toys and meandered our way south.

The waves at Pacifica weren’t all that encouraging as it looked to be only slightly overhead on the best portions, but you could see on the points and just south of OB that there was some good swell running. A bit windy, but had a lot of potential.

Driving past Montara and all the other nooks and crannies before Half Moon Bay I had to struggle to keep my eyes on the road. Montara was pretty large with no one out. Easily double overhead macker close outs that looked heavy and uninviting…despite the nice weather.

As we continued our drive we made a last minute decision to stop and get a first glimpse of the North Pacific swell hitting Mavericks. The parking lot was packed and there was a small squad of cameras up on the hill, so me and the boyz ventured out to check all the action.

Camera Squad

There were a bunch of pros out and several jet skis. Rumor has it that there was a crew that flew in from Hawaii to charge the 25ft. faces.

Speaking with Mark Sponsler from StormSurf.com and others that were out there I was told that the faces weren’t massive but they were pretty thick and powerful. One look at the mountains of whitewater and the way they come careening into the boneyard will tell you that it was pretty serious.

Mavs

The really good sets would come every ten minutes or so and it was quite a spectacle to see it all go down. Just paddling out there into the Arena is a feat in itself.

Step in to the Arena

We watched the brave souls out there for about an hour paddling into the massive walls as they fell down the faces and raced for the shoulder. Utmost respect to those guys.

Solid

The pack was all sitting close together and from my vantage point up on the cliffs you could see three wave sets building as they approached the takeoff zone….the pack would then sink into the trough and disappear until you saw them dropping vertically with total commitment. The rights were really impressive freight trains, but the lefts were something else. The power was pretty clear from about a half mile away.

Oh Mack

Check out the shadow that is cast by this heaving lip. Certainly not a good place to be. I remember hearing one of the pioneers of the place, Grant Washburn talk about how heavy the place is and that you have to ball up when you eat it. The sheer force of the wave was described as being able to rip your appendages right off.

Thick

Leaving Half Moon Bay we stopped to have lunch across from Peter Mel and a friend. Everyone was out and all a buzz with the contagious energy of the sea.

We drove past Waddell and Scott Creek watching sailboarders and kitesurfers launching sometimes 20ft in the air over the tops of the lips. There was some good wind and no shortage of swell to serve as launch ramps.

By this time it was late in the day and so arriving in town I went straight out to Pleasure Point on the eastside hoping to get some long rides to warm up on. Surfed for about two hours until just the moonlight shone on the faces of the waves. It was pretty tame, except for the sets that would come through every twenty minutes or so. A couple times I got caught inside between Sewers and First Peak and had to swim down deep to avoid the eight foot+ walls of whitewater bearing down on me. There was so much froth on the surface that it was like swimming in a creamy milkshake.

Waking up the next morning I went to check the surf on the Westside and was greeted with the Lane at its best. Large glassy walls that broke perfectly and a good sized crowd starting to form.

Steamers

Everyone was stoked and so I sat up on the cliff shooting some photos of the morning action. Santa Cruz is truly a mecca for surfers and Sunday was about as good as it gets in offering a little something for everyone. Longboarders were jazzed picking up rides from way outside on the bombies all the way into Cowells.

Arch

Shortboarders were airing out with the little speed ramps that were lining up from out of the slot. Sometimes you would get a super fast left and right hander from the cliff and two guys racing towards each other both trying to find their ramp. It was a little like a game of chicken and certainly entertaining for everyone on the cliff.

Lil Boost

The inside waves had some nice juice and sometimes the waves after the sets were the best…all frothy and rippable.

Carving the Cream

Saw one guy pulling into some little cover ups that didn’t end so well. He was pissed when he came up to find that the only thing attached to his leash were his three skegs. The little board just got snapped on one of the little grinders.

Oh Snap

It felt like it was about 85 degrees, not a cloud in the sky and although the wind picked up a bit around noon, by the time I got out in the afternoon it was glassy as ever and stayed that way for the rest of the day. It was a beautiful weekend in one of the most unique places in the whole world. This place has it all, from rivers to mountains, redwood forests that have marched right up to the sea and more. I know that this won’t last as we quickly approach winter and the impending storm action that batters the coast, but until then the Golden State is the place to be.

Nice Left

Podsurf.tv

Podsurf.tv

I’m in love with PodSurf.tv. It is one of the top podcasts in iTunes for good reason. It has killer production quality with great content from interviews with legends like Albe Falzon to profiles of Koby Abberton and Bobby Martinez.

They are based out of Oz, but have a huge following developing around the world. The Kelly Vs. Andy piece is a must have, as is the Koby Abberton bits and the Shipstern episode.  Click the image above to see what I’m talking about…or click here and see what I stay talking about

Sign up through iTunes, grab a brew or two, sit back and enjoy.

Jordy Smith Wins the Santa Cruz Cold Water Classic

Jordy Tearing a New One

19 year old Wildcard hailing from South Africa takes home the prestigious title and joins the rankings of some of the Surfing World’s best. In one of the most exciting spectator surf events, second only to maybe the Pipe Masters for proximity to the action, Jordy Smith shows the pack of very talented surfers what is to come. Check out this video I pulled from YouTube to see him in action.

On the winning wave Jordy matched the highest score ever in one of the longest running contests in Northern California scoring a 9.5 out of 10. Currently the ASP World Junior Champion, we can expect some good things from this powerhouse in the coming years.

Cold Water Classic 2007

2006 Cold Water Classic

Well the 4 Star WQS event is back in Santa Cruz this week and continuing through Sunday. I was there watching last year and saw Timmy Reyes ripping it up before his injury and saw all the local boys putting on a good show. This year should be pretty exciting too.

Round one on Tuesday started out small, but yesterday filled in with some solid 4-6ft pulse. The swell is expected to hang around over the next few days which should make for an exciting run on the 75k purse and bonuses on hand…including a new Jeep.

Check out the Live Webcast at the official site or Wavewatch.com.

Here are the official results courtesy of SurfersVillage.com

Round 1: 160 surfers remaining (1st and 2nd advance)
Heat 7: Brandon Roberts (ZAF) 11.20, Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 10.46, Tommy Bursian (PRI) 6.67, Sam McGee 6.66
Heat 8: Jay Phillips (AUS) 12.16, Layne Harrison (USA) 11.00, David Giddings (USA) 8.60, Thomas Petriken (USA) 5.90
Heat 9: Matt Meola (USA) 10.10, Rylan McCart (USA) 9.00, Marshall Alberga (USA) 7.40, TJ Mikus (USA) 6.47
Heat 10: Kai Barger (HAW) 11.36, David Post (USA) 10.24, Brent Reilly (USA) 7.63, Eddie Lester (USA) 5.10
Heat 11: Josh Mulcoy (USA) 11.44, Jason Harris (USA) 9.76, Nick Kovack (USA) 8.90, Rory Parker (HAW) 6.76
Heat 12: Tyler Smith (USA) 12.67, Dane Ward (USA) 9.23, Jeffrey Lowe (USA) 5.57, Jordan Gaudet (USA) 5.30
Heat 13: Leif Engstrom (USA) 9.57, David Gonsalves (HAW) 7.00, Cory Kvenild (USA) 5.73, Michael Bailey (USA) 5.70
Heat 14: Travis Mellem (USA) 12.33, Ryan Sakal (USA) 6.47, Riley Metcalf (USA) 5.74, Shane Murray (USA) 3.60
Heat 15: Kiron Jabour (HAW) 12.13, Matt Pagan (USA) 12.00, Richie Collins (USA) 11.67, Austin Smith-Ford (USA) 8.87
Heat 16: Javier Swayne (HAW) 14.67, Randy Bonds (USA) 12.00, Brandon Guilmette (USA) 9.24, Andy Robson 6.30

Round 2: 128 surfers remaining (1st and 2nd advance)
Heat 1: Chris Dennis (TTO) 10.27, Luke Davis (USA) 8.17, Sean Hayes (USA) 6.77, Peter Mussio (USA) 5.64
Heat 2: Adam Lambert (HAW) 12.10, Omar Ercheverry (USA) 11.90, Sterling Spencer (USA) 11.70, Jesse Colombo
Heat 3: Billy Kemper (USA) 9.03, Andrew Bennett (USA) 8.93, Granger Larsen (HAW) 7.83, Jamie Parkhurst (USA) 3.87
Heat 4: Sean Taylor (USA) 10.73, Peter Mel (USA) 10.50, Anthony Ruffo (USA) 10.43, Kyle Ramey (HAW) 6.53
Heat 5: Johnny Craft (USA) 10.74, Jake Kirschenbaum (USA) 9.5, Kevin Kapsky (HAW) 6.27, Ben Graeff (USA) 5.20
Heat 6: Zach Plopper (USA) 10.20, Clay Marzo (HAW) 9.83, Tarik Khashoggi (USA) 9.17, Matt Mohagen (USA) 3.67
Heat 7: Layne Harrison (USA) 14.23, Kellen Ellison (USA) 10.50, Brandon Roberts (ZAF) 9.00, Chris Drummy (USA) 7.20
Heat 8: Jay Phillips (AUS) 11.17, Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 9.00, Roger Eales (USA) 7.50, Jeremy Sherwin (HAW) 5.53
Heat 9: David Post (USA) 9.84, Eddie Guilbeau (USA) 9.23, Justin Swartz (USA) 6.33, Matt Meola (USA) 4.43
Heat 10: Kai Barger (HAW) 11.10, Zach Keenan (USA) 10.06, Cory Arrambide (USA) 8.23, Rylan McCart (USA) 5.37
Heat 11: Dane Ward (USA) 11.50, Josh Loya (USA) 10.26, Josh Mulcoy (USA) 6.70, Blake Jones (USA) 6.63
Heat 12: Tyler Smith (USA) 10.80, Ian Ekberg (USA) 8.16, Jason Harris (USA) 7.50, Casey Landvogt (USA) 6.20
Heat 13: Ryan Sakal (USA) 9.50, Ryan Briggs (USA) 7.73, Wesley Larsen (HAW) 4.80, Leif Engstrom (USA) 5.83
Heat 14: Travis Mellem (USA) 12.00, David Gonzalves (HAW) 6.93, Golden Depesa (HAW) 5.77, Matt Myers (USA) 5.70
Heat 15: Randy Bonds (USA) 9.17, Kiron Jabour (HAW) 8.70, Casey Brown (HAW) 4.80, Garth Engelhorn (USA) 4.00
Heat 16: John Daniels (USA) 11.93, Shey Yates (USA) 7.83, Javier Swayne (PER) 5.53, Matt Pagan (USA) 4.86

Orangefiist

An Etruscan term used to describe the creative energy they felt throughout their daily lives. Don’t forget that this early civilization were the ones who dreamt up the foundations of our modern infrastructure.

Orangefiist.com is a site dedicated to bringing to life a beautiful perspective on the heart of skateboarding and visual creativity.

Check out the Livin Free trailer here

and pay a visit to SilverFishLongboarding.com and OrangeFiist.com to learn more about the artists behind it all.

Jo Yuei!! October is pretty darn good too!

Tha Meystro Charging

The Old Taiwanese Fisherman will tell you that Jo Yuei is the month. With a twinkle in his eye, he’ll tell you about the time of year when the fisherman have to be extra careful when choosing how they navigate their waters and earn a living. Sometimes being confined to their harbors for a week or more as Typhoons lash the coast.

Well October was pretty darn good too with Super Typhoon Krosa bringing mass destruction as surfers rejoice. The Autumn Tiger, as it is often called, was as beautiful as it was ferocious packing gusts up to 160 knots, taking the lives of nearly 20 people and knocking out power to well over 400,000 households.

Giant Waves near Ilan

Giant waves hit the shores of Nanfangaou fish harbor in Ilan county, eastern Taiwan. Typhoon Krosa pounded northern Taiwan with powerful winds and torrential rain, forcing offices and schools to close and disrupting air and road traffic. AFP

Beauty

Surfers like Clayton and Terry from opposite ends of the Island basked in the glory left behind by such a powerful storm. Some of the biggest waves surfed by both of them in Taiwan.

In between dodging cops Terry was able to score two epic solo sessions. As he charged one of the outer reefs off the southern tip of the island he was given a royal beating in the form of a three wave hold down that pushed him down to Davey Jones’s Locker and back. Depleted of oxygen and energy he was able to pull himself to the surface, regain his bearings, and catch a couple more before calling it quits for the afternoon.

AK looking Ominous

Later on that day he charged the infamous AK and states ‘AK and the outer reef were some of the biggest and cleanest waves i’ve ever got! Managed to get six waves at AK without a beating. It was insane.’

Its quite often a daunting task paddling out solo when you know that you could very easily become an island statistic if you don’t know what you are doing. If you do happen to get a fin cut or bonked in the head help could be far away or non-existent on this Island Nation that pays a healthy respect to the Ocean and even has temples, scattered around the Island, dedicated to appeasing goddesses like Matsu who protect sailors, fisherman, and these days even surfers from the mighty power of the seas.

Here is a photo of an old local attempting to dissuade the young charger. You know he has seen his fair share of tragedy along this stretch of coast.

Timing the sets…or looking to be talked out of it

Nothing worse than someone to help you second guess yourself on a day like this.

Meanwhile Clayton in the heat of pursuit for the Ultimate ride in Taiwan manages to get some of the largest waves I’ve seen ridden out at a spot that rarely breaks, but when it does, offers some of the longest, cleanest, and most rippable waves on the Island.

Here she is looking a lot like a dirty Uluwatu.

Going Big!!

Taiwan is often just a stop in the airport for those surfers traveling to more consistent locales like Bali, Phillipines, or Japan. Any surfer will tell you when you mention Taiwan, ‘oh yeah, I’ve been to Taiwan but never left the airport’.

For those brave enough to venture out of the airport and sample the local culture, this is what can await you.

Looking Nice Nice

I think A-Lang of A-Lang Surf Shop in Southern Taiwan puts it best when he says ‘It’s nice to be Local, and if you’re Local it’s nice…it’s fuckin noice.’

Nan Taiwan

One California Day

One California Day

The premier of One California Day is tonight at The Victoria Theatre in San Francisco at 8pm. It will also be showing through the 7th at 7pm and 9pm.

As stated on their site:

From the filmmakers who brought you Singlefin: yellow, DRIVE and Stylemasters, comes a story about surf culture and tradition. One California Day is a visual journey through six distinct coastal regions, capturing the California surfing experience through the surfers who live it. Shot in brilliant super 16mm color film, the movie examines the variety of subtle differences that make California so unique.


Check it out if you can!