Well Mick Fanning is #1 in the world after winning the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast. He is in a good position now to go for his first world title. He is a rippa. I was stoked to see that news cause it motivated me to get out in the water and go for a paddle even though the surf was kinda bumpy and small. It was the best thing I’d done in about a week. I feel completely rejuvenated and had a great time. My first wave was the best one. I took off a little behind the peak, stayed high and then came down into the flats with the lip compressing into a retro styly bottom turn which thrust me out onto the shoulder and so I had to pull out a full ‘free as a bird’ style cutback with a little tweak at the end which sent my tail a sliding. I proceeded to find the little power pockets to manage about four more cutbacks, one of them being a full roundhouse. Needless to say, I was stoked and felt about as close as I could ever come to how Mick must have felt the other day as he made his way into pole position. Hoooo Brah!! The ocean is a magical thing.
One thought on “#1 Rippa”
hooo brah-stoked that u found happiness in a marginal wave situation…some people are lucky to be in a surf mecca to get the good waves more times than not,but the real beauty of the sport is to just get out there,do a few good moves on a decent wave n have that inner peace of doing something special that most of the population on this planet dont do-that plus the all important time in between sets to just sit there and comtemplate what this world,people n feelings we have are all about…thanx for the inspiration to get out there n do the same…p.s.,dont count out sl8tr or taj