With the way the wind was blowing on Saturday afternoon, it didn’t look hopeful that I would get a session in. I held out till around 5:30pm and finally with about an hour of light left it looked as though the wind had backed off enough, so I ran out for a quickie.
It was kind of funky and spent most of my time dodging closeouts. It felt great though because as I said, I just had to get wet. There was only one other guy out way down the beach that I saw every now and then in between sets.
The next morning I got up early, but with the time change it didn’t feel like it. I thought there would already be a bunch of guys on it, but the tide was high and there was a lot of water moving. I almost went back to get my bigger board, but glad I didn’t cause the little 6’1″ 18 1/4 2 1/4 is a bit slower and keeps me in the pocket rather than speeding ahead and missing sections. The only tricky part is not getting pitched into the flats on the bigger ones.
It was beautiful and sunny, but still lots of warble in the swell. I surfed for about two hours, caught five good waves and called it a day. My last ride involved a little lip action and then cover up to slashing carve….so I was stoked with that.
I went back to check it in the evening and was surprised to see the swell had cleaned up a bit with the low tide. I wanted so badly to get back out there, but had to suck it up. I did manage to slip away for ten minutes with my oldest boy to catch the sunset and a few nice rides.
It was one of the nicest days of the year and everyone was out walking on the beach, playing frisbee, taking pictures, having picnics…it felt great to be wearing shorts and its technically still winter.
The surfers were putting on a good show as the waves were fairly hollow on the good ones and rippable.
A couple stopped to watch as this guy was racing for the lip and then threw up a spout of spray that was backlight as if someone had lit off a flash in the water. The guy with his wife turned to me and said ‘Did you get that?’. Everyone was just soaking up the summer like weather and good vibes.
As my son and I rushed back to the house to eat and get ready for the week we reflected on what a beautiful finish to a great weekend it was. I’m going to practice creative visualization more often.