I came across this video that was sent to me and just thought it was brilliant. Miki Dora talking about his life and the state of surfing.
If you want to learn more…check out the new book by David Rensin ‘All for a Few Perfect Waves’ on sale April 8th.
Who Was Dora?
â€œMiki took to his grave many stories that no one will ever know, but this book will also tell many and give new insight into his life. In the end only a select group knew the real person. Iâ€™m not sure I did-but almost.â€ â€” Kelly Slater
â€œFor fifty years, surfing in Southern California has been shrouded in a myth wrapped in an enigma by the name of Miki Dora. Now, we have the facts. A magnificent book.â€
â€” Kevin Starr, California Librarian Emeritus and professor at University of Southern California
“In times like these it turns out not only is there an oral history of Miki Dora, there must be. Great reportage.â€
â€” Stephen Gaghan, surfer, screenwriter/director
â€œThe most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce.â€
â€” New York Times