6 days in a row…going on 7


Going on 7 days in a row of surf. Everything from a knee high to well overhead, peaky and rippable, to pull in and get pummeled. It has been an epic summer thus far and many are claiming it to be the best early summer in nearly a decade. Last night got to surf my 9’6″ and was cross stepping this way and that getting incredible rides from the nicely shaped little peelers.

The day before I got the early session which was the clean-up from the peak of the swell the day before that. It was really nicely shaped and had some round opportunities on most every wave.


I was able to pull into a bunch of them and log some tube time although not making it out of most. It was all about the view anyway regardless of what the outcome was.

At the peak of the swell, it was a solid 4-5 ft with only a couple guys out. This was Monday night, if I’m not mistaken. The swell was dropping pretty quickly, but if you could get the right ones you were in heaven. It was magical with the neon red sun from all the fires burning here in California and the dolphins were out in all their glory.

There was a pod of about 6 or 7 of them and twice that evening a 500+lb dolphin leapt out of the water flipper style within about twenty feet of where I was sitting. They would ride some of the bigger swells that came in and then disappear into the depths as the swells reared up.


The pelicans were also out showing off as they glided up and down on the incoming swells, in formation. It was surreal and very magical. Aside from the life in and above the water, if and when you did get caught, you felt alive as ever, since this was some of the biggest swell I’ve had in a few months.

Caught Inside

These photos were all shot the following morning which was equally majestic, not nearly as big, but really clean and glassy. Not since my last surf trip have I surfed for 6 days in a row….going on 7.

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