The past few weeks haven’t been very photogenic, but there have been a few little swells that have come in briefly and provided some fun. Have shelfed the 9’6″ Amplifier and have taken out the 6’0″ Soul Fish, which in comparison, feels like a skateboard.
It’s been good to feel gravity again, but am a little rusty on the dumpy take offs. Was telling my friend that on my first wave the other night I took off on a good sized lump that came right to me. It was one of those waves where you get excited a few seconds before it gets to you and just know its gonna do its thing. Your mind starts racing with all the possibilities, you get super focused, smile creeps in, and the shadows around you start hooting, and then, for me on this one, the bottom dropped out…I tried to commit as much as possible, but ended up free falling nose first into the base of the wave and my board just did a down periscope and I slapped the flats with my face. It was pretty comical and a great way to start out a session.
Not every day has been dumpy though, we’ve had some fun in betweeners too. One of the elements has been just slightly off though. It’s been the wind and tide lately. Can’t seem to get everything to line up just yet. It is still really early though. Just a taste of what’s to come.
I’ve had some fun days for sure, but since it hasn’t been epic I’ve spent many a days just hanging on the beach taking in the natural beauty.
or lack thereof…depending on your perspective.
I happen to think the giant Jellyfish scattered along the water are beautiful…as are the unique sand patterns formed by the high tide.
The water is pretty amazing the way it creates these.
In other news, I just picked up a new 6’5″ the other day. It’s a Stretch Quad and I’m stoked to try it out in some juicier ones. Surfed it down in Santa Cruz on Friday and had a good time out at Rockview. Felt so mellow. Hoping the wind will chill and tomorrow will be the day for up here.
Until then I’m going to head out and enjoy the sun on this last day of August.