Surfed Out

I am totally exhausted. What an epic weekend. We had record temperatures this week, about 10 degrees past the previous record set in 1906. Couple that with offshore winds and a super fun swell and well it just doesn’t get much better.

I surfed my 6’5″ quad yesterday taking off on some long extended drops…as the wind held up the face nice and long. The walls were lining up for about 50 yards and breaking both left and right depending on where you sat.

It was a good size and nice long period ground swell. The wind would feather the tops and make for beautiful rainbows that extended from the lip to the trough behind it and almost completing a full circle. I wish I had a picture of that for you guys. Need to work on picking up a water housing. The views from the beach in between sessions were nice too.

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Because of the offshore, some guys would get held up in the lip longer than they probably would have liked and ended up having to straighten out on beautiful ones like this.

So many good waves and so little energy to chase them all. As the sun was setting a couple surfers got pulled out in a rip and had trouble getting back to shore. One of them finally made it back to the lineup only to see the other about 100 yrds out waving for help. The first surfer made it to shore and called 911. Moments later three lifeguard trucks pulled up on the beach with spotters standing on their trucks sirens blazin searching with binoculars for this surfer. Swimmers got in the water, a Coast Guard boat came out and started patrolling beyond the surf and a couple fire engines were up on the Great Hwy. It was quite a scene. I was pretty far out there and didn’t see anyone past where I was sitting, which is what I told the guy who alerted the Fire Dept., Coast Guard and Lifeguards when I came in. I sat and scanned the horizon for about 20 minutes before the sun went down and didn’t see anyone out there, except for a few surfers getting their fill. I didn’t hear anything on the news either, but I bet whoever it was probably came in down the beach not realizing all the commotion was for him.

The waves were big, but they were nicely spaced and had perfect shape so the guy probably just got tired. I know I was…I must have paddled several miles over the past couple days. It was well worth it too, trying to stay in position, cause when the sets came through you forgot all about your burning arms and back and just dropped in nice and smooth and relaxed stoked that you could now use the lower half of your body to carve it up.

Well, I’m pretty beat just talking about how tired I am…so I’m going to leave you with a couple last images.

The sunsets the past couple days have been unreal…