Slide and Glide


So I’ve had Woodshed Films on my mind recently as they have been promoting their new film, as you know.  Last night got The Seedling in from NetFlix and watched it over a pint of 2 degrees below.  Such a beautiful film that it got me all jazzed to ride the ole 9’6″ that I now fondly refer to as my ‘amplifier’.

It’ll take any session and turn it into a blast.  Luckily for me this morning the surf has been tiny the past few days after the epic weekend of sun and surf.  By lucky, I mean that it fit into my mind state after watching the film and dreaming about hanging ten.  I woke up and ran out in the fog and cold over the dunes to find one other surfer out.  The waves were tiny….like knee high on the sets, but with the same perfect shape its held all week.  Little barrels fit for an action figure were rifling down the sand bars.

I paddled out super stoked to play around and wake up.  Way better than coffee.  I was super cozy with my new found Patagonia hood with wool inside…so stoked on that.  Before long the other guy went in and I had a fun little playground all to myself….I used it too, paddling like a maniac for every peak that came in.  You go so fast on a big board you feel like you have to catch everything…can’t let anything go unridden.

I had one of the best sessions…gliding and sliding my way left and right.  I don’t know if it was the inspiration from the movie, the small waves, the nice shape or what, but I was cross stepping, riding switch stance, riding two feet together, and generally felt like I was on par with those log riding legends in the movie.  Tudorish I dare say….ok, I wasn’t even close, but I had some styly rides where my knee caps got all covered up…cutbacks, the whole nine.  Tomorrow the swell is supposed to jump up…have to break out the shortboard just when I was having so much fun on my log.

Next time its small, check out The Seedling and see if it works for your surfing.

Ps…the image above is a frame grab from the film that I tweaked a bit….thanks Woodshed!

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