The swell arrived yesterday in solid form. Â Going from about 5ft to 10ft+ through the course of the day.
The only guy out that I could see
Drops into a solid one and charges across the face
Real smooth like
As he makes his way along, the wave starts to get a bit more exciting
Maybe a little bowly section that causes him to stall a bit
As it hits the inside bar it starts to stand up higher as he shoots down the line
Quickly making his way to the inside, for better or for worse
Starts to wall up again and being pretty far inside
Nearing the end of the ride you can start to see what will await him when he kicks out
Ho brah, need to think about an exit strategy right about now.
..he probably has no idea what’s in store for him at this point.
Kicks out of the foam and has some stacks of water to contend with…hard to tell where the sets start and end on a day like this
Just one of four sets waves to land directly on his head….all bigger than the one he was riding
Leash snapped after wave two and sends him swimming
Board recovered on the far inside and he takes one home
Feels really good to be on the sand having taken on a beast and getting a great ride and then enduring a huge four wave set on the head
Beautiful sunset that reflects the beauty, power, and darkness of the beach we call home.