Rode out the swell…thoroughly surfed out!

What a week!!  6 straight days of sun and swell and then another day of swell but without the sun. It would hardly be fair if Aeric didn’t get a taste of the fog at some point. After a few solid days out here at OB and some really fun waves down south that will provide memories to last a lifetime.

Last full day of Aeric’s University exploring surf trip was underway as we decided to take a scenic trip down Highway 1 on our way to the birthplace of surfing in Northern California.  We brought five boards from 6’2″ to 9’6″ and headed out prepared for anything that came our way.

Was pleased to find some remnant south swell mixed in at the first stop on the central coast tour.  All the local legends were out, mixed in with pros and semi-pros warming up for the Cold Water Classic coming to town.

Aeric was super stoked to get out and hooting and skipping around as he tried to slip into his cold suit that never had the chance to dry all week long.

Some nice little waves were coming through as we watched Flea and then Barney showing the line-up how they do. Ratboy waxing up and the guys putting up the scaffolding for the big show. It was quite the introduction to the Westside.

With all the talent in the water, it was hard to get a wave to yourself…here’s Aeric practicing his stink eye below.

I told him if I got one that he could drop in on me so that he could get extra waves.  He dropped right in on me on a good one and Flea had to regulate by giving him a little bit of stink eye and paddling super close to lay on the thick intimidation. Flea was unaware that I had given Aeric a free pass to smoke me. Pretty classic!

Charging from day one, I could tell he was in heaven with the dry hair paddle out and nice long groomed lines.  A stark contrast from the punishing paddles he endured all week long up north.

Here he is on a good one…I snapped a bunch too soon and then the camera had to process so I missed the best part of this wave.  He was rippin! This was on hour three too…I got out and opted to take some shots so that we’d have some proof.  He caught a bunch more, but I was too busy surfing to get any on film. That’s usually the way it is though.  There is usually little to no proof of the best sessions.

This shot below could be Aeric on his next visit…he got quite the education this past week. Looking forward to seeing him out here again soon.

Thought this was a very appropriate saying on the famous Santa Cruz lighthouse.

This shot below was for you Dawn.  Thanks for helping him to get out here and make this trip a reality…although he hated these types of shots he was a good sport about it.

Safe flight home Aeric!!  Till we ride again.

One thought on “Rode out the swell…thoroughly surfed out!

  1. Great post Thelo. Thanks for giving Aeric a taste of Northern Cali surf and taking time off from your busy schedule to spend time with my son. He truly had a wonderful time…Next time I’m tagging along.

    Thanks so much… Gazza


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