Preoccupied

January has been a pretty incredible month for surf all up and down the coast, but especially in my backyard.  I’m a bit biased, but I love the challenge, the cold water, the always changing conditions and finding that diamond in the rough in our fully exposed wilderness that skirts one of the most visually stunning cities in the world.  I figured you can probably tell from the lack of posts here that I’ve been pre-occupied.  When the surf is good it can be quite consuming and thankfully I’ve been able to flip it and consume my fair share.  Yesterday  was no exception where I put in a good solid three hours before the storm hit.

As I got pulled north over the course of the session I was able to grab everything from nearly DOH peaks, to fast wally lefts and cruisy rights, to dumpy shorepound on the way to Kelly’s.  Got out of the water as the wind started to pick up from the south and the rain was starting to come in.

Long walk back down the beach with friends replaying all the good rides and good times.  Pressure drops and getting caught inside.

Sometimes you fight to stay in position but yesterday was one of those days that I just let the ocean have it’s way and let it take me past several very different types of breaks in about a two mile stretch.  Enjoying the variety and conserving energy at the same time.

The photos I shot here are not from yesterday, but taken over the past couple weeks.  I’ve been sitting on them because when I’m not working or tending to my familial duties I am gliding along like these guys above and below.  Looking at getting some more in today if conditions cooperate.  Sun is trying to poke through, wind is calm and the swell is up a bit.

Looks like we may be in for some more fun surf this week and weekend too.  It’s going to 15ft@15 secs tonight and then easing up till Thursday when we get another pulse.

Gonna go check it and I hope that wherever you are in the world reading this that Mother Nature, King Neptune, and Matsu are all being good to you too.

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