Thank goodness Fogust is over. I think we had three sunny days all month out here in the Sunset and only a few more days of fun surf…yesterday being the highlight of the month for sure. September started off with a bang though, or rather a boom as the wedgy south swell peaks thundered on the sandbars.
I waited for the afternoon session to paddle out and instead spent my morning waking up with some coffee and my camera in the dunes and then the early afternoon doing ding repair and running errands. Â By the time I got in the water I was so stoked and ready to charge, which was a good thing cause there were some solid sets coming through. I would say 4-6 foot, with the occasional 8-10 foot bomb sets every twenty minutes. Â The whole ocean would light up with the long period swell coming in and when those 8-10 footers came in it was like cat and mouse on my 6’5″.
Luckily you could see the sets coming and they were really peaky so they were easy to dodge if you weren’t’ in the right spot.
It was great to feel some winter style juice during our Summer. Remnants of the swell that blasted Tahiti and brought the biggest swell in ten years to Ala Moana.
All the real locals were stoked. These dolphins have been hanging out for the past week or so and were whizzing by me and flying out of the water. Pretty amazing to see such a large animal playing alongside you in the surf.
These guys aren’t small and always pop up right when the sets would come. An awesome sight when they fly right by you.
Looks like the swell is going to stick around a couple more days. Nice warm up for fall after a long foggy summer. Bring on the Indian Summer and offshore winds.