Thank goodness Fogust is over. I think we had three sunny days all month out here in the Sunset and only a few more days of fun surf…yesterday being the highlight of the month for sure. September started off with a bang though, or rather a boom as the wedgy south swell peaks thundered on the sandbars.
I waited for the afternoon session to paddle out and instead spent my morning waking up with some coffee and my camera in the dunes and then the early afternoon doing ding repair and running errands. Â By the time I got in the water I was so stoked and ready to charge, which was a good thing cause there were some solid sets coming through. I would say 4-6 foot, with the occasional 8-10 foot bomb sets every twenty minutes. Â The whole ocean would light up with the long period swell coming in and when those 8-10 footers came in it was like cat and mouse on my 6’5″.
Luckily you could see the sets coming and they were really peaky so they were easy to dodge if you weren’t’ in the right spot.
It was great to feel some winter style juice during our Summer. Remnants of the swell that blasted Tahiti and brought the biggest swell in ten years to Ala Moana.
All the real locals were stoked. These dolphins have been hanging out for the past week or so and were whizzing by me and flying out of the water. Pretty amazing to see such a large animal playing alongside you in the surf.
These guys aren’t small and always pop up right when the sets would come. An awesome sight when they fly right by you.
Looks like the swell is going to stick around a couple more days. Nice warm up for fall after a long foggy summer. Bring on the Indian Summer and offshore winds.
Got this for Father’s Day and watched it before the south hit this weekend. All sorts of beautiful wave craft and styles to get you inspired.
SIGHT|SOUND from High Seas Films on Vimeo.
Cool to see this music find its visual match after twenty some odd years. I met Paul McCartney with his son and his daughter Stella at the surf shop I worked at while in school many years ago and was super stoked to find out that one of the greatest living musical legends and icons of the 20th Century is actually a surfer too!
Blue Sway | Paul McCartney from Concord Music Group on Vimeo.
Well Memorial Day weekend often kicks off the start of summer vacation for most and well it wasn’t a half bad start surf wise. Â In fact, I think most of us were pleasantly surprised by the little pockets of good surf leading up to and capping off the weekend.
Thursday morning I caught one of the best waves I’ve had this spring. Â It was one of those days where it wasn’t quite doing it’s thing on the outside and so the waves would break on the outside but then roll all the way in and reform on the inner sand bar, sometimes making for some funky but well shaped dredgers.
I got a nice left hander that missed breaking on the outside and then started to wall up right in between the inner and outer bars where I was sitting. Â I got in early and made a long drawn out and bumpy bottom turn to backhand lip bash and then to my surprise the wave stood up and wove it’s way all the way down the beach about a good city block. Â After my fifth turn I kicked out before the wave closed out on the inside and rode the next bit of white water in with a smile from ear to ear. Â Sometimes all you really need is one wave to make the whole session.
In general, the period was so short that a seemingly easy paddle turned into a 10-15 minute battle if you wanted to make it all the way outside. Â This poor guy above never did make it and had to try again from further up the beach. Â Some sections were like defensive lines just not going to let you through.
When you finally did get outside there were some pretty fun ones to be had. Â Lefts and rights and enough energy to allow you to throw it around a bit.
This time of year, it’s generally onshore and lousy and so when it does clean up for those little windows, it often takes people a while to figure it out and you can get waves all to yourself. Â Word spreads quickly and conditions change even quicker, so you have to be swift.
With Spring in the air, nice weather, and some fun waves it was a great way to welcome summer and be thankful to all those that made the ultimate sacrifice so that we could enjoy all that we do.
We’ve all seen the trailer, but this has some cool surfing action that I hadn’t seen yet. What a weird and beautiful phenomenon.
The onshore wind is killing me…hoping it’ll back off for this weekend. Â Going back through my winter archive and dreaming of days past.
Got some photos this week from Gazza on his adventures road trippin’ around Taiwan with the ole’ salty dawgs.
Not a whole lot has changed in the past few years. Â Having fun thinking about a caption here, but I’ll leave that one up to you guys.
Nice to see this! Â In remembrance of! Â Look forward to getting out there again one day soon and grabbing a gem in honor of Bob.
Reward for the travels. Â Not sure if that is just locals clearing typhoon garbage from the beach, an attempt to stay warm, or perhaps just good ole’ fashioned entertainment. Â Maybe all three. Â ‘I do what I want’ attitude still lives strong.
Ready to hit the road myself and embark on some adventures of my own.