Inspired

Got an email from a Dave Higgins which has inspired me to start posting some stuff.  It’s not that I haven’t been completely MIA…I have been attracted to lazier blogging methods like Tumblr and Twitter.  They make it so easy to be lazy.  Watching the boyz Mike, Dave and tha Mayor of Paisha and now Hengchuen rip it up at Boardwalks and the Tower has got me inspired again.  We’ll see how long it lasts.

In between checking for my infrequent updates have a look at Dave’s new site, BaliBoardBrokers.com and post some stuff.  I need to get on there too, I’ve got a 6’4″ Firewire selling cheap if anyone wants it.

I’ve got a bunch of things from a few surf sessions that I never posted shots for, to new boards that I’m trying to make, to old Taiwan photos of the boyz doing their thang.  So I’m going to make a New Year’s resolution half way through the year to step it up.

Here’s one from the archives.  OB South Swell looking pretty darn good.  Insert yourself.

Four out of Six

Four out of the last six days were like this.  A shot of just one of the many wave rich moments over the past week.  That guy isn’t standing by the way, he’s sitting on his board and waiting for a lull to get outside.  Some of the waves coming off the corner of my little stretch of beach were nothing short of amazing for this time of year.

It may look a little tired at first glance, but If you look closely, this lineup shot is anything but.  Once it hit the right sand bar, the OH waves would break in about 3-4 ft. of water and that’s when the fun began.  I’ll have to find some more hollow ones, cause I think I did get a few.  It’s always when its going off that you get the least amount of photos though and at the end of the day mind you when the lighting is the worst and everyone is surfed out.

Great start to June and even when the fog rolled in it wasn’t June Gloom at all.

Slackin’

Ok, I’ve been seriously slacking the past few months.  I’ve been really busy.  I’ve started my foray into shaping, been surfing a bunch, and making moves.  I had a killer week of surf up here at OB.  OH for about a week straight and barreling this way and that.  Some good performances out there with people get spit out of tubes, leashes snapping and all sorts of mayhem.  I’ll throw up a couple shots in the coming days, but before I do that figured I’d warm up by posting a little vid of Patrick Trefz’s new film coming soon.

http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=12120035&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1

idiosyncrasies. a new film by patrick trefz. coming summer 2010 from patrick trefz on Vimeo.