It All Came Together

Majestic

It is rare, but when it all comes together it is beautiful. San Francisco is one of the few places where as you get closer to the Ocean the real estate prices drop. It takes a special type of person to weather the thick fog, harsh winds, and damp cold. As a surfer, it is the only place I would want to be. The smell of the ocean and the roar of the waves at night is what makes me feel alive. People often question those who live out here and when you say you live in the Outer Sunset they say, oh you must surf.

Barrels Galore

And I say, YES I DO! Ocean Beach is not all fog though, the locals will tell you that when it all comes together those few times a year it makes all those other cold onshore windy days worth every bone chilling bit.

Tucked

75 degrees in November. Not bad at all. Everyone was out at the beach enjoying the beautiful weather and warm offshore winds that groomed the overhead surf. Here is a guy on one of the little insiders.

Deep

Saturday was a bit more full and had some size and mass in the morning, whereas today was just firing. a little smaller with more time in between sets, but just rifling lefts and rights with definate cover up potential.

You could even get away with a bikini it was so nice.

Collecting SeaShells

I surfed three hours in the morning and got some of my best waves out at OB. I had a couple lefts that were all time. I was able to link about three big top turns on one fast little wedge that had me giddy by the time I kicked out.

Misty

Another one that stood out was a right hander that I got into late and pulled in tight under the lip to have my hand skip across the face of the wave as I picked my line and drove for the shoulder finishing it off with a little slo mo cutty. I caught so many waves that towards the end of the session I could barely push myself up on a wave and keep from being catapulted into the flats. I know I wasn’t the only one. Why else would you turn your back on a wave like this.

Niceness

Ocean Beach can get gnarly and certainly lives up to its reputation, but on weekends like this you forget all about it as the whole city comes out to enjoy one of the best things about living here in the City of San Francisco.

Tubes

Going back to work with a bit of sun, sore muscles and a grin from ear to ear will keep me pacified until the next round of Bluebirds. Images like this will be branded in my mind as I think back on the spray taking the tops off and leaving a full circle rainbow in their wake. The pelicans surfing up and down the beach cruising effortlessly on the unridden swells and the numerous cracking barrels that I duck dove under.

Hollow

With daylight saving time kicking in and the the extra hours to get wet during the week vanish my weekends will become more and more precious. These last 6 or so hours that I logged in the water will be the stuff that keeps me dreaming for more.

Hazy

Word of Mouth

Word of Mouth

Timmy Curran’s debut album Word of Mouth is actually not bad. I was kind of weary hearing about some of the reviews and how he was being compared with Jack Johnson and the other Ocean inspired musicians. I am a fan of Jack Johnson…I think he is really talented. Ben Harper has some good tunes that I can get into like that Burn One Down song. I have varied tastes in music and can appreciate everything from Scott Joplin to the RZA to Creedence and Kruder and Dorfmeister. I generally prefer music with a bit of an edge to it, a strong baseline, good rhythm etc.

I listened to Donovan Frankenreiter a couple times and I don’t think I’ve made it through a whole song…I can appreciate his style for the most part, but not so much his taste in music. I should probably try listening to more so I can make an educated judgement, but everything I’ve listened to sucks too bad.

Timmy’s first song Daylight’s Coming starts out nicely….kind of trippy guitar almost surf guitar ish. His voice is pretty good, reminds me of a 70’s fly like an eagle type sound. His lyrics were ok…they’ve kind of grown on me, but my blink impression was that it was a bit corny and awkward. I do really like the little instrumental jam after the bit about the light bailing him out….certainly my favorite part of the song. He should have had a better ending though…kind of just ends could use some more polishing.

The second track Comatose has a cool mellow somber and reflective type message. He is on it and reminds me of a mix between this old Black Uhuru song and Paul Simon…weird mix I know. Selfish ways is a bit ok…not sure where that accent comes from. The lyrics are a little bit Christian rockish…if you just feel it with an open mind its doable. I really like Joan…that song is cool. Songs like that could take him somewhere…he sounds soo much like Paul Simon in Blue Eyes.

Tim Curran

All in all its a solid effort from a man who rips. His voice is pretty cool, his band is musically talented and he sounds like he is having a good time. I look forward to seeing how he moves forward from this first creation. You can learn more about Timmy on his site and be sure to get the free download.

It’s the Bomb

eBomb

My last wetsuit was falling apart…literally. I had a big tear from the neck to the chest that I had repaired haphazardly with some wetsuit repair Goo, and the knee had a hole in it almost as big as my knee cap that would send a chilling rush into my nether regions as I entered the water. It was time for a new suit.

I wasn’t sure what to get but was going for price and knew that pretty much any suit these days is pretty killer. I remember some of the early suits and let me tell the youngins that we are sooo spoilt with all the new neoprene and blind stitching, glued, taped this and that.

The new Patagonia suits are pretty killer. They are super warm, made of sustainable materials etc. The price tag was the ultimate killer though. I just didn’t have it…and needed a new suit pronto. I checked O’neill as I knew that they were pretty solid…I even checked out a few of last years models. I found an Excel 4/3 that looked that it would do the trick, pretty straightforward and cheap. Then I stopped by the Hotline HQ and got sucked in by their $159 4/3 sale only to be disappointed in finding out that they were all sold out. I’ve never worn one, but they seem pretty simplistic. I like the rasta colored suits and wanted to support local.

On a whim I stopped by the Surf Outlet in Santa Cruz to check it out and see what kinds of goodies they had in stock. They turned out to be an outlet for Rip Curl suits…selling them at a fraction of the cost that you would find elsewhere. They had tons to choose from and they were coming in at a cool $200 for the new models which were atleast $100 cheaper than anything comparable around town. If it weren’t for the excellent salesmanship of the lady behind the counter, I might not have taken that bad boy home, but I couldn’t resist.

I picked up an XL Rip Curl eBomb without even trying it on. Just eyeballed it and with the sales gal’s help found what I thought would be a perfect fit. My last O’neill was a large tall, so this was a bit stockier but actually fit like a glove.

My first session in it was amazing. Entering the water I felt invincible, not a drop of water was able to penetrate. The O’neill had a bit of slack around the ankles and wrists and was a bit heavy in comparison. The XL eBomb I picked up had no slack what so ever. It was actually so tight that I was concerned I got too small a size. Those fears were easily squashed as I duck dove the cool overhead surf in complete bliss. I didn’t have to wear booties or a hood and I was hot. I had to dump water over my head to keep me cool.

I was throwing myself over the lips, doing backward flips and launching into the flats without getting flushed…it was a whole new experience.

Getting it on and off was a bit more difficult, but I think I’ve got it down now. I am worried that I might tear the suit cause its so lightweight and stretchy…so far so good. Its the best wetsuit I’ve ever had in terms of warmth, flexibility, and functionality.

The only complaint I have is that the neck is so high and tight that it can chafe you and leave you looking like someone tried to hang you or something. Other than that, I’m stoked on my new purchase and would recommend picking up one for the winter. Its got all the bells and whistles, good value, and it’ll make you surf like Mick Fanning. Future World Champ!!

Gar Bage by Andy Hughes …pronounced like you were French only he’s from Cornwall

Ball of Trash

Don’t you hate it when you think you have this brilliant idea and then you realize that someone has been doing it for much longer than you had the thought and probably much better than you could have done it. Yeah, me too. It happens alot.

When I was living in Taiwan you would come across these beautiful empty beaches without a soul in sight. They didn’t get your usual beachcombers walking up and down picking up shells and interesting rocks as in some of the more frequented locales.

By the way, Taiwan is the only place I’ve ever been to where they have shops devoted to selling rocks that you would find on the many cobble lined beaches of the East Coast. Yeah, Rock Shops… but thats a whole nother story.

In addition to the beautifully shaped rocks you would also find the most interesting garbage.

Happy New YearPlastic Bottle

I started photographing some of these pieces and wanted to eventually create a book showcasing some of this really weird and really cool stuff. From Doll heads, to weird plastic drums, to baby bottles, and all kinds of things you wouldn’t expect to see washed up on a beach. I still have those photos in boxes in the closet and will have to dig them out someday. Not incredibly spectacular, but interesting none the less.

Well, Andy Hughes, an artist from the seaside town of Cornwall in the U.K. has done a brilliant job of stealing my idea. Well not exactly, he has actually been capturing some of the beauty in this trash that floats ashore for probably much longer than I have had the idea and he has numerous awards and accolades to prove it. The images he captures are spectacular and his efforts and motivation stem from wanting to create awareness for what we dispose of and how and where it all will eventually end up.

Andy Hughes Lighter in the Sand

By turning this careless disposal into fine Art, he has hopefully awakened many and shed some light on what we as Surfers know all too well. Everything you throw away could end up in the Ocean.

Take care of our planet, be mindful of what you consume and how you consume it, and keep our planet blue and green and all the other colors that Andy has done such a fine job of representing in his work. He has a book too! Dominant Wave Theory. That Bastard! ๐Ÿ™‚

PS…All images are courtesy of AndyHughes.net.

British Airways Surfboard Ban

Cornwall

Olaus at Marazion, Cornwall, UK รขโ‚ฌโ€œ January 2007

Photo Courtesy SurfersPath.com

The International Surfing Association, ISA, and BluebirdSurf.com is shocked to learn of the British Airways (BA) ban on the carriage of surfboards (effective from 6th November) and supports the British Surfing Association’s petition to lobby the airline to reverse their decision. Like the British Surfing Association, the ISA is also urging all surfers to utilise a new members group on the social networking site Facebook, complain directly to British Airways and spread the word amongst other surfers.ร‚ย 

Karen Walton, National Director of the British Surfing Association says, “If everyone who surfs could take five minutes to go online and follow our recommended action steps then we will have a real representation of the swell of support for the reversal of this absurd decision. The Facebook site already has in excess of 1,000 members and lots of our members have been making complaints to BA. The British Surfing Association online petition means that people all over the world can add their support to our campaign and can add their personal comments about the issue. We will then be personally delivering the petition to the management at BA in the near future.”

Surfers are urged to take the following steps to help us lobby British Airways to reverse their decision:

1) Go onto www.britsurf.co.uk and click the ‘SIGN ONLINE PETITION OF PROTEST IN THE NEWS SECTION ON THE HOME PAGE’. Follow the easy steps to sign this online petition and add any comments.

2) If you have a Facebook account, join the Facebook ‘British Airways Surfboard Ban’ group

3) Click this link http://www.britishairways.com/travel/custrelform/public/en_gb and register a complaint with BA directly

4) Encourage all other surfers to follow these steps

ร‚ย 

More Information from the BBC:

ร‚ย 

The ban, due to start on 6 November, will include BA flights between London Gatwick and Newquay in Cornwall, one of the UK’s main surfing destinations.

BA says that “large size and handling complexities” mean it will no longer carry surfboards, hang-gliders, javelins, canoes and pole vaults.

Members of the Newquay-based British Surfing Association (BSA) have reacted with “disbelief and anger”.

We’d find it extremely hard to believe that the average Mini Mal (surfboard) would be more difficult to handle when compared to a double bass

Karen Walton, BSA

BA says on its website: “Due to the large size and handling complexities, some sporting equipment cannot be accommodated through the airport baggage system or within the aircraft hold.

“Therefore we no longer accept the following equipment at check-in as part of your sporting equipment allowance.”

Karen Walton, national director of the BSA, said the ban was “inexplicable”.

She said: “We’d find it extremely hard to believe that the average Mini Mal (surfboard) would be more difficult to handle when compared to a double bass and a full bag of golf clubs.”

She added that the ban would be bad news for the growing numbers of surfers travelling to destinations around the world.

Ms Walton also said that among those who would be disappointed were the British surfing teams, who have previously chosen BA “mostly as a result of their generally fair baggage policy”.

Ms Walton continued: “We therefore feel completely let down and angered by the news that our national airline is banning surfboards rather than following some other airlines and charging a supplementary fee.”

BA restarted its flights between Gatwick and Newquay in March after a three-year absence.

So leave your Javelins and Pole vaults at home guys next time you’re traveling.ร‚ย  Don’t even think about bringing one of those stand-up paddleboards…It ain’t gonna happen!

ร‚ย 

NorCal Lights Up

Lighting Up

NorCal and its lucky waveriders lit it up on the first swell of the season.

It started out on Friday night talking with my family about the plans for the weekend. We decided to take a spur of the moment weekend trip down the coast. Didn’t really have any plans but were excited for the forecasted warm weather and solid swell hitting on Saturday.

Woke up Saturday morning way too early and it was already shaping up to be a beautiful day. My son and I walked out to Ocean Beach to check the waves and it was a pretty good size…no one out and a lot of water moving. Not the best shape, but plenty of good swell. We packed up the car with boards, suits, and other toys and meandered our way south.

The waves at Pacifica weren’t all that encouraging as it looked to be only slightly overhead on the best portions, but you could see on the points and just south of OB that there was some good swell running. A bit windy, but had a lot of potential.

Driving past Montara and all the other nooks and crannies before Half Moon Bay I had to struggle to keep my eyes on the road. Montara was pretty large with no one out. Easily double overhead macker close outs that looked heavy and uninviting…despite the nice weather.

As we continued our drive we made a last minute decision to stop and get a first glimpse of the North Pacific swell hitting Mavericks. The parking lot was packed and there was a small squad of cameras up on the hill, so me and the boyz ventured out to check all the action.

Camera Squad

There were a bunch of pros out and several jet skis. Rumor has it that there was a crew that flew in from Hawaii to charge the 25ft. faces.

Speaking with Mark Sponsler from StormSurf.com and others that were out there I was told that the faces weren’t massive but they were pretty thick and powerful. One look at the mountains of whitewater and the way they come careening into the boneyard will tell you that it was pretty serious.

Mavs

The really good sets would come every ten minutes or so and it was quite a spectacle to see it all go down. Just paddling out there into the Arena is a feat in itself.

Step in to the Arena

We watched the brave souls out there for about an hour paddling into the massive walls as they fell down the faces and raced for the shoulder. Utmost respect to those guys.

Solid

The pack was all sitting close together and from my vantage point up on the cliffs you could see three wave sets building as they approached the takeoff zone….the pack would then sink into the trough and disappear until you saw them dropping vertically with total commitment. The rights were really impressive freight trains, but the lefts were something else. The power was pretty clear from about a half mile away.

Oh Mack

Check out the shadow that is cast by this heaving lip. Certainly not a good place to be. I remember hearing one of the pioneers of the place, Grant Washburn talk about how heavy the place is and that you have to ball up when you eat it. The sheer force of the wave was described as being able to rip your appendages right off.

Thick

Leaving Half Moon Bay we stopped to have lunch across from Peter Mel and a friend. Everyone was out and all a buzz with the contagious energy of the sea.

We drove past Waddell and Scott Creek watching sailboarders and kitesurfers launching sometimes 20ft in the air over the tops of the lips. There was some good wind and no shortage of swell to serve as launch ramps.

By this time it was late in the day and so arriving in town I went straight out to Pleasure Point on the eastside hoping to get some long rides to warm up on. Surfed for about two hours until just the moonlight shone on the faces of the waves. It was pretty tame, except for the sets that would come through every twenty minutes or so. A couple times I got caught inside between Sewers and First Peak and had to swim down deep to avoid the eight foot+ walls of whitewater bearing down on me. There was so much froth on the surface that it was like swimming in a creamy milkshake.

Waking up the next morning I went to check the surf on the Westside and was greeted with the Lane at its best. Large glassy walls that broke perfectly and a good sized crowd starting to form.

Steamers

Everyone was stoked and so I sat up on the cliff shooting some photos of the morning action. Santa Cruz is truly a mecca for surfers and Sunday was about as good as it gets in offering a little something for everyone. Longboarders were jazzed picking up rides from way outside on the bombies all the way into Cowells.

Arch

Shortboarders were airing out with the little speed ramps that were lining up from out of the slot. Sometimes you would get a super fast left and right hander from the cliff and two guys racing towards each other both trying to find their ramp. It was a little like a game of chicken and certainly entertaining for everyone on the cliff.

Lil Boost

The inside waves had some nice juice and sometimes the waves after the sets were the best…all frothy and rippable.

Carving the Cream

Saw one guy pulling into some little cover ups that didn’t end so well. He was pissed when he came up to find that the only thing attached to his leash were his three skegs. The little board just got snapped on one of the little grinders.

Oh Snap

It felt like it was about 85 degrees, not a cloud in the sky and although the wind picked up a bit around noon, by the time I got out in the afternoon it was glassy as ever and stayed that way for the rest of the day. It was a beautiful weekend in one of the most unique places in the whole world. This place has it all, from rivers to mountains, redwood forests that have marched right up to the sea and more. I know that this won’t last as we quickly approach winter and the impending storm action that batters the coast, but until then the Golden State is the place to be.

Nice Left

Podsurf.tv

Podsurf.tv

I’m in love with PodSurf.tv. It is one of the top podcasts in iTunes for good reason. It has killer production quality with great content from interviews with legends like Albe Falzon to profiles of Koby Abberton and Bobby Martinez.

They are based out of Oz, but have a huge following developing around the world. The Kelly Vs. Andy piece is a must have, as is the Koby Abberton bits and the Shipstern episode.ร‚ย  Click the image above to see what I’m talking about…or click here and see what I stay talking about

Sign up through iTunes, grab a brew or two, sit back and enjoy.

Jordy Smith Wins the Santa Cruz Cold Water Classic

Jordy Tearing a New One

19 year old Wildcard hailing from South Africa takes home the prestigious title and joins the rankings of some of the Surfing World’s best. In one of the most exciting spectator surf events, second only to maybe the Pipe Masters for proximity to the action, Jordy Smith shows the pack of very talented surfers what is to come. Check out this video I pulled from YouTube to see him in action.

On the winning wave Jordy matched the highest score ever in one of the longest running contests in Northern California scoring a 9.5 out of 10. Currently the ASP World Junior Champion, we can expect some good things from this powerhouse in the coming years.

Cold Water Classic 2007

2006 Cold Water Classic

Well the 4 Star WQS event is back in Santa Cruz this week and continuing through Sunday. I was there watching last year and saw Timmy Reyes ripping it up before his injury and saw all the local boys putting on a good show. This year should be pretty exciting too.

Round one on Tuesday started out small, but yesterday filled in with some solid 4-6ft pulse. The swell is expected to hang around over the next few days which should make for an exciting run on the 75k purse and bonuses on hand…including a new Jeep.

Check out the Live Webcast at the official site or Wavewatch.com.

Here are the official results courtesy of SurfersVillage.com

Round 1: 160 surfers remaining (1st and 2nd advance)
Heat 7: Brandon Roberts (ZAF) 11.20, Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 10.46, Tommy Bursian (PRI) 6.67, Sam McGee 6.66
Heat 8: Jay Phillips (AUS) 12.16, Layne Harrison (USA) 11.00, David Giddings (USA) 8.60, Thomas Petriken (USA) 5.90
Heat 9: Matt Meola (USA) 10.10, Rylan McCart (USA) 9.00, Marshall Alberga (USA) 7.40, TJ Mikus (USA) 6.47
Heat 10: Kai Barger (HAW) 11.36, David Post (USA) 10.24, Brent Reilly (USA) 7.63, Eddie Lester (USA) 5.10
Heat 11: Josh Mulcoy (USA) 11.44, Jason Harris (USA) 9.76, Nick Kovack (USA) 8.90, Rory Parker (HAW) 6.76
Heat 12: Tyler Smith (USA) 12.67, Dane Ward (USA) 9.23, Jeffrey Lowe (USA) 5.57, Jordan Gaudet (USA) 5.30
Heat 13: Leif Engstrom (USA) 9.57, David Gonsalves (HAW) 7.00, Cory Kvenild (USA) 5.73, Michael Bailey (USA) 5.70
Heat 14: Travis Mellem (USA) 12.33, Ryan Sakal (USA) 6.47, Riley Metcalf (USA) 5.74, Shane Murray (USA) 3.60
Heat 15: Kiron Jabour (HAW) 12.13, Matt Pagan (USA) 12.00, Richie Collins (USA) 11.67, Austin Smith-Ford (USA) 8.87
Heat 16: Javier Swayne (HAW) 14.67, Randy Bonds (USA) 12.00, Brandon Guilmette (USA) 9.24, Andy Robson 6.30

Round 2: 128 surfers remaining (1st and 2nd advance)
Heat 1: Chris Dennis (TTO) 10.27, Luke Davis (USA) 8.17, Sean Hayes (USA) 6.77, Peter Mussio (USA) 5.64
Heat 2: Adam Lambert (HAW) 12.10, Omar Ercheverry (USA) 11.90, Sterling Spencer (USA) 11.70, Jesse Colombo
Heat 3: Billy Kemper (USA) 9.03, Andrew Bennett (USA) 8.93, Granger Larsen (HAW) 7.83, Jamie Parkhurst (USA) 3.87
Heat 4: Sean Taylor (USA) 10.73, Peter Mel (USA) 10.50, Anthony Ruffo (USA) 10.43, Kyle Ramey (HAW) 6.53
Heat 5: Johnny Craft (USA) 10.74, Jake Kirschenbaum (USA) 9.5, Kevin Kapsky (HAW) 6.27, Ben Graeff (USA) 5.20
Heat 6: Zach Plopper (USA) 10.20, Clay Marzo (HAW) 9.83, Tarik Khashoggi (USA) 9.17, Matt Mohagen (USA) 3.67
Heat 7: Layne Harrison (USA) 14.23, Kellen Ellison (USA) 10.50, Brandon Roberts (ZAF) 9.00, Chris Drummy (USA) 7.20
Heat 8: Jay Phillips (AUS) 11.17, Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 9.00, Roger Eales (USA) 7.50, Jeremy Sherwin (HAW) 5.53
Heat 9: David Post (USA) 9.84, Eddie Guilbeau (USA) 9.23, Justin Swartz (USA) 6.33, Matt Meola (USA) 4.43
Heat 10: Kai Barger (HAW) 11.10, Zach Keenan (USA) 10.06, Cory Arrambide (USA) 8.23, Rylan McCart (USA) 5.37
Heat 11: Dane Ward (USA) 11.50, Josh Loya (USA) 10.26, Josh Mulcoy (USA) 6.70, Blake Jones (USA) 6.63
Heat 12: Tyler Smith (USA) 10.80, Ian Ekberg (USA) 8.16, Jason Harris (USA) 7.50, Casey Landvogt (USA) 6.20
Heat 13: Ryan Sakal (USA) 9.50, Ryan Briggs (USA) 7.73, Wesley Larsen (HAW) 4.80, Leif Engstrom (USA) 5.83
Heat 14: Travis Mellem (USA) 12.00, David Gonzalves (HAW) 6.93, Golden Depesa (HAW) 5.77, Matt Myers (USA) 5.70
Heat 15: Randy Bonds (USA) 9.17, Kiron Jabour (HAW) 8.70, Casey Brown (HAW) 4.80, Garth Engelhorn (USA) 4.00
Heat 16: John Daniels (USA) 11.93, Shey Yates (USA) 7.83, Javier Swayne (PER) 5.53, Matt Pagan (USA) 4.86

Orangefiist

An Etruscan term used to describe the creative energy they felt throughout their daily lives. Don’t forget that this early civilization were the ones who dreamt up the foundations of our modern infrastructure.

Orangefiist.com is a site dedicated to bringing to life a beautiful perspective on the heart of skateboarding and visual creativity.

Check out the Livin Free trailer here

and pay a visit to SilverFishLongboarding.com and OrangeFiist.com to learn more about the artists behind it all.