Month: December 2007

On the last day of 2007 we are blessed with blistering offshore winds and XXL surf.  Only a few were brave enough to paddle out and reap the rewards.  Often waiting close to an hour for a single chance to stroke into a beauty like this one.  The lefts were the call for the most part, but there were some beautiful rights to be had as well.

The Ocean will go seemingly calm for moments and then come to life as waves stack to the horizon and pound the shores for ten minute intervals or more.  In photos it looks deceivingly mellow.

Had a fun session down south yesterday and I’m looking forward to getting wet tomorrow as the swell is supposed to drop a bit to more human sized proportions.  Until I get that 6’10” I need, my ass is on the beach with my biggest board being a 6’1″.  Don’t feel like hanging out with Davey Jones just yet.

The title of this post comes from the famous New Year’s Eve song Auld Lang Syne and although is speaking of a different kind of sea, I couldn’t resist trying to tie them together a bit.

Happy New Year!!  May the Bluebirds find you in 2008!

That’s what we stay talkin about!!

It’s been a bit hectic leading up to the Holidays and so this swell couldn’t have had better timing. Woke up yesterday after sleeping in and took a leisurely stroll out to the beach to see pipes, cylinders, kegs, and barrels of all shapes and sizes breaking this way and that.

It was offshore and clean and so I had to hightail it back to the house for my winter getup. I was pretty out of shape since I hadn’t surfed in about a week and was in need of some serious stretching. Sitting on the beach and stretching you could see there were some beautiful little rides to be had.

It was deceiving as you would see some perfect peaks to be had, but of course there was always a maelstrom of whitewater between you and those waves. You have to find the perfect little rip that will suck you out.

I have been surfing this little 6’1″, 18 1/4, 2 1/4 which is really fun when you are up and on it, but it doesn’t exactly float me very well. I keep telling myself that it keeps me in better shape and forces me to surf deeper. It took me at least ten minutes to get out a couple times when I got caught inside cause the ocean was just having its way with me. OB can be like that.

When you do get one and all the elements come together, it is magical. I went out again this morning to similar conditions and one of the guys was saying that OB is so dependent on tide, wind, current, swell direction etc and that for all of it to come together is pretty rare. It can be pretty classic and fun, but one of those elements is always messing with you.

Without a doubt there are barrels to be had and its a perfect way to start Christmas Vacation. I’m going to go catch up on Santa duties, but I’ll leave you with this last sequence.

This morning I got some of my biggest and best barrels here in the city. I had a couple that were solid 6ft and allowed me to travel nearly 50 yards in the warbling eye. I pulled into about a dozen or so and did some serious time traveling, but didn’t make it out of any of them. I came close on two of them and then got klipped and krumpled only to come up to hoots and hollers.

Get out there and enjoy. Will some more big swell headed our way its a perfect day to get warmed up.

Happy Birthday Gary aka “Gazza, Gazzstarr, Gazzanator and my favorite the Gazzaster.

Hope you have a great day today and prosperous year ahead.

Thanks for keeping it real and being you!

Bluebird Norcal Chapter

 

EPA Sets Hearing Date for Disputed U.S. Steel Pollution Permit

Please see the info from the Alliance for the Great Lakes in this link:

http://greatlakes.org/news/111107.asp

Also see the info from the US EPA in this link:

http://www.epa.gov/region5/publiccomment/ussteel-pubmtg.htm

This pollution issue affects everyone living in the Great Lakes region, but it is especially scary for those of us who surf and swim in southern Lake Michigan waters. There are numerous surf breaks within mere miles (one within 100 feet!) of the U.S. Steel plant in Gary, Indiana, so this directly affects you!

 

In cooperation with the newly formed Surfrider Lake Michigan chapter based in Grand Haven, Michigan, Third Coast Surf Shop is calling on friends and customers throughout the southern Lake Michigan region to attend this public hearing the evening of Tuesday, December 11^th at Indiana University Northwest’s Savannah Auditorium, located at 3400 Broadway Ave in Gary, Indiana. Please see the link above for all of the details.

 

Sorry…a bit late on this one.

 

Comments may also be submitted online to EPA’s Web site at http://www.epa.gov/region5/publiccomment/ussteel-pubcomment.htm#form

As surfing continues to grow into the mainstream in the Great Lakes, it is especially important that we all do our part to make a difference in helping to preserve our natural environment. This issue directly affects us and surely future generations. If you have experienced sickness of any kind from surfing near the US Steel plant, your attendance and contributions is especially needed.

Do we want our kids learning to surf in contaminated water?!

 

You do make a difference!!!

 

Check out and support Third Coast Surf Shop…those guys are gnarly. They duck dive icebergs and shit.

 

www.ThirdCoastSurfShop.com

www.GreatLakeSurfing.com

 

 

 

Victory at Sea claimed the life of North Shore Veteran and Big Wave Charger Local Legend Peter Davi at a forbidding spot known as Ghost Tree in Monterey yesterday.  Buoys were showing around 15ft at 15 seconds which amounted to nearly 60 ft faces at Mavericks in the afternoon yesterday and most likely similar size at Ghost Tree.

Reports say he lost his board and just couldn’t make it to shore.  His unconscious body was found later by friend and Santa Cruz local Anthony Ruffo.

Sincere condolences go out to his friends and family.

Swells are expected to peak this evening and you can expect large surf on tap for the rest of the week as more swell is on the way.

According to Mark Sponsler of StormSurf.com, the strongest storm of the season is headed our way and expected tomorrow Tuesday (12/4) with 55 kts winds and up to 45 ft seas targeting all of California from a very westerly direction. This to be Storm #9 of the 2007/2008 season. Heavy surf advisories are in effect.

I’m sure we will see some fine surfing go down in the next couple days. I bet most of you guys have checked out the photos of the tow teams tackling monster surf in Ireland this past week. Very impressive shots and much respect to the chargers out there pioneering some of the largest waves ever ridden in those parts. Check out SurfersVillage.com and Surfline.com for the goods on that.

Enough to get you amped for the swell hitting in our backyard.