Seas between us braid hae roar’d


On the last day of 2007 we are blessed with blistering offshore winds and XXL surf.  Only a few were brave enough to paddle out and reap the rewards.  Often waiting close to an hour for a single chance to stroke into a beauty like this one.  The lefts were the call for the most part, but there were some beautiful rights to be had as well.


The Ocean will go seemingly calm for moments and then come to life as waves stack to the horizon and pound the shores for ten minute intervals or more.  In photos it looks deceivingly mellow.

Had a fun session down south yesterday and I’m looking forward to getting wet tomorrow as the swell is supposed to drop a bit to more human sized proportions.  Until I get that 6’10” I need, my ass is on the beach with my biggest board being a 6’1″.  Don’t feel like hanging out with Davey Jones just yet.

The title of this post comes from the famous New Year’s Eve song Auld Lang Syne and although is speaking of a different kind of sea, I couldn’t resist trying to tie them together a bit.

Happy New Year!!  May the Bluebirds find you in 2008!


One thought on “Seas between us braid hae roar’d

  1. going off! I love it when it gets huge. Scary take offs, pounding clean up sets, and your arms turn into noodles. fun fun. Great pix Thelo!


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