Had a really fun day of surf this past weekend. Felt like summer in February. It was sunny with an overhead swell running, bright greenish turquoise water, and the crowds were right. Traveled down south on a building WNW swell and got to ride my soul fish that I busted up a month or two earlier surfing Steamers on an equally gorgeous day. The photo above is down the point from where me and my friend Ted surfed and as you can see looked pretty good.
Had some nice rides, felt totally out of shape but loved every minute of it. Surfed till I was sloppy and could barely paddle.
The session before this one I was surfing some punchy little shorebreak and snapped my board that I have had for about 6 years. My first surftech that has been all over SE Asia with me.
It was kind of sad to see it go, but also kind of cool that it snapped right beneath me while duck diving. I was glad it didn’t just get old and fall into disuse. It went out in style! The wave wasn’t even that big, but the energy of it went straight through my body into the board and SNAP. Came up after a violent shaking to find my leash attached to some skegs….while the rest of my board was traveling off in a rip.
I have this thing with running my boards into the ground, so now I have a reason to add a new one to my quiver when the time is right. I have been eyeing these Bulkley’s from Mollusk.
Now I have a reason to spend more time in that shop. It’s like a candy store!