I received my copy of ‘All for a Few Perfect Waves’ recently and am looking forward to diving into it.
Here is an entertaining clip by the author David Rensin.
Mike was like a stone; an attractive, magnetic, powerful stone. A stone that was vaguely translucent; that you could see into for a few inches and then it went milky and inscrutable. And around the stone all the little iron filings gathered, people who did not see anything in the stone, but could not resist it. When the stone moved, they rearranged themselves, shifted positions, made an intricate complex maneuver to get closer to the stone.
-Eugene Burdick, The Ninth Wave
Bluebird Surf 