So it was small, but dude…you can’t complain. The crowd was right! I was stoked…got three morning sessions mid week the best of which was this day. My last wave before I headed off to work was killer. I took off on a lil right that was perfectly shaped and speedy. As soon as I got to my feet I pumped quickly to get up high on the face and with the lip cascading just behind my back leg barely touching it I was able to stay just ahead of the lip. I raced up and down pumping down the line when I saw my opportunity for a head dip and slowly glided down to the mid point of the face…I softly slid my hand onto the wall feeling it as it rose up above and over my head…got a couple seconds of the corner and then stood up as I shot out onto a little shoulder….did a slow mo cutback to the foam and then jumped on my belly to ride in. Great way to start my day. It looked just like this right hander below.
Getting up for the early tomorrow again…wish me luck and stayed tuned…Thanks for the motivation Duggar!