Awoke before the crack of dawn to almost balmy weather for these parts. Grabbed my 6’5″ not knowing how much swell would have squeezed in and hoped for the best.
Needless to say, I was pleasantly greeted by spitting barrels. Its funny too, cause I was just talking about them and its not all the time that the tide and swell come together to create those types of waves. It wasn’t big…about 2-4ft but perfectly shaped. Within the first few minutes I saw probably five waves that spat…one right on me as I duck dove to get outside. The water was a little chilly and I was one of three guys out at 7am. I guess everyone slept in a little not knowing what to expect after a couple days of wind.
I was stoked as I had a peak all to myself that had a nice fast right and bowly left. I had some great rides and stayed out as long as I could. More and more people began to show up and share in the fun. I had a killer bottom turn on the wave of the morning that made me feel like a superstar but unfortunately went too high and overshot the lip skidding out as I attempted a cutback/snap. Got too excited I guess. It had been awhile since I had glassy perfection. I also had a nice snap on a left hander that got me excited…this time didn’t blow it. Timed it nicely just under the lip and had a no look back torquing thwack. Good ego boost! I love those moments that stand out in your sessions. Thinking back…it’s interesting the surf moments that get branded in your psyche. Good times!
Looks like more swell on the way for this weekend. Cold Water Classic in Santa Cruz should keep the crowds just right.