Time Travel

When you pull in, it’s a funny thing.  Time seems to slow down and your senses become more acute.  It’s really a surreal experience.

I captured this quick…and I emphasize quick, clip of my second wave last week on the dawn patrol.  My memory is so much more grand.  I don’t remember that sheet of white foam covering my head after I came up though.  Kind of funny to experience an event like this in this way.

I surfed with the camera again yesterday and its a little like texting while driving, which is illegal now in California.  As I paddled out, I noticed at least one other guy had one also.  I think the board mount is the way to go.  Having it on your wrist is a bit tricky.  It definately affects your wave choice and ability to surf as you become focused on lining up the shot.  You take bigger waves, but can’t activate the camera until the best part is over…maybe it’ll get easier.

Well enjoy!  Hoping to get this down soon so I can provide some more entertaining footage.  Hey, it’s a start.

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