After all this massive surf the past couple weeks it was nice that my first surf since last week was in the more manageable head high range. Â It was a good way to get back into the swing of things. Â It’s crazy how out of shape you can get after just a short amount of time. Â Surfing my potato chip again didn’t help with that.
The waves had great shape but not too much energy behind them. Â The lefts were actually a bit better than the rights for the most part…but I did see a couple nice rights that got away. Â Just a bit out of position for them.
Looking forward to getting the early tomorrow; been too long.
