Spike in Swell

Swell started to show yesterday…came a day early in fact.  Waves were breaking as far out as the eye could see, all of the headlands had bombies peeling along its shores, Maverick’s was breaking and being ridden and all sheltered spots were going off.

Today it has started to back off a bit, and there were even a couple fearless chargers out there trying their luck on the shifty windblown peaks.  The hot air and sun gave a false feeling of mellowness quickly dashed by the heavy water.

It was hard to not be mesmerized by the beauty and raw energy.

From the beach it’s always hard to get a full appreciation for the size and scale, shifting peaks, rips, wind intensity and other dynamic aspects of trying to surf OB when its on.

Lots to contend with.  A true test of a waterman’s skill and perseverance.

A challenge like few others.

A bit of cat and mouse, a bit of strategy, and a zen like composure.

The last part for me, since I run out of breath quick and have to practice my breath control when its gets sizey.

As the swell drops, I’m hoping the beautiful weather sticks around.

Summertime in the city!

Summer is Back

We had a great little run of warm weather and waves that lasted nearly 7 full days, and then it seemed as if Winter was upon us.  Two weeks where we got a taste of rain and weather and then it all started to come together.

Summer came back, just in time for Halloween and our Giants to win the World Series.

This guy is punting in celebration!

So many fun peaks to choose from…right or left you can’t go wrong.

Look at how fun this is.  I think of all the different equipment choices you could play around with, all offering up a different kind of glide.

There were some bigger sets here and there, warmish water, and bright sun.  Was really nice to take it all in while pelicans zoomed by on the up drafts.

November 1st started off in perfect form.  Slightly overhead sets poured in with little drainers at low tide.

How’d you like to be this guy right now?

Or this one!  Not  drop of water out of place.

As the swell goes up to 30 ft today, we all get a chance to slow down and reflect.  Slowly coming down off the high from last nights big win and the string of good waves.

Ho Brah!

You gotta love this town!

Seasons are a changin…

Had a good string of waves recently.  The inspiration was watching Dane, Taj, Kelly, and Owen going off down south at Trestles. Dane’s crazy 360 air reverses on some pretty sizeable walls, Taj’s ‘drop wallet’ cutties, and Kelly and Owen just smooth as can be.  When I got out in the water I was trying my best to channel them.  One or Two paddle take offs, draw your line, and then open up where ever you can.

Waves were really clean and from about 2-4 ft with some punchy ones depending on the day and tide.

The waves on this swell were far better than these photos give them credit.

On the last day of the swell a morning surf check and…

A rare whale washed up.

Sad sight…such a beautiful creature.

This is all I could think of when I saw it.  Slide and pound.

It was rumored at first that this was the same whale that ended up on the bow of the Cargo ship in Oakland, then taken back out to sea to decompose and then brought to us via the south swell.  There was a sizeable slice in the mid-section that could have been from a rope used to drag it out to sea.

Later reports said it was a rare Sei Whale…still not sure what the official word is, but I think it’s the latter as they had guys from the Academy of Sciences taking the important pieces for the museum.  Look who’s been dining on this guy.  No surprise.  Tis’ nearly Sharktober.

They buried it right in front, in a not so deep grave.  In days of old they had a different strategy, as you can see from the video.

See below for the real video.

Beached whale buried from k9sound on Vimeo.

RIP big guy!

Our first real Winter Swell is starting to hit now.  Just got out of the water after a 3hr sesh.  My board hit my right below my nose on a spectacular wipeout…and I got all bloodied up.  Stayed out though and got some great long right handers with offshore winds.  All starting to come together.

OB Lite

OB Lite

After all this massive surf the past couple weeks it was nice that my first surf since last week was in the more manageable head high range.  It was a good way to get back into the swing of things.  It’s crazy how out of shape you can get after just a short amount of time.  Surfing my potato chip again didn’t help with that.

Lil' 1

The waves had great shape but not too much energy behind them.  The lefts were actually a bit better than the rights for the most part…but I did see a couple nice rights that got away.  Just a bit out of position for them.

Looking forward to getting the early tomorrow; been too long.