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One of my favorite ‘Surf Personalities’

Posted on December 29, 2009 by Bluebird Surf

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← Tis’ the Season

Five Day Streak… →

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That’s how you get the heart pumping first thing in the morning💪🏽

Some people just want it a bit more than others. Two takers, not sure if they ever made it outside. Calm amongst the storm at sunset last night.

Nick is shaping away for this season. Be nice to yourself and order a custom. Shaped by hand using #usblanks and glassed with #entropyresin by the talented team of glassers, sanders, finishers @stretchboards in Santa Cruz. He has a new site up and is ready to put fresh feels under your feet✨

So good seeing the #npac wake up a little and the neighborhood buzzing with excitement. The nice weather helped too✨. Late start for this warm up swell but we’ll take it🌊💨

Seasons are changing and although Mother Nature is a little confused right now, it’s only a matter of time before the #npac wakes up and this fog clears. @das_carter easing on down the line on a day that reminds me of today, minus the swell.

JD @jdnation1958 has been making boards like these since 71’. Part of the pipeline crew in the 70’s and later resident shaper at O’Neill in Santa Cruz for over a decade. Although I’d seen his boards over the years, my first time riding one was a 5’7” ‘Blaster’ channeled twin that really opened my mind a couple years ago. So fast it feels like you’re hovering at times. Lately I’ve been riding his single fins and appreciating the flow and simplicity. Hand made from start to finish, including the fins, and glassed by the talented crew @santacruzboardbuildersguild I have a 5’10” available for demo from him and a lightly used 6’4” in Mollusk SF currently. DM me if you want to meet up and give the 5’10” single fin swallow tail a go. If you’ve been picking up on all the recent interest in channeled bottoms and singles and twins via the recent @surfersjournal article by @christianbeamish or watching pro’s rip on singles in the Maldives this summer and it piqued your interest…you need to check these out🤙🏽

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Musings on a Life of Surf

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