Nice swell this week in the range of way too scary big to more human sized proportions. Â The swell seems to be dropping fast today with beautiful hollow DOH A-frames still marching in every 7 minutes or so. Â There were a handful of guys out this morning sampling the clean lines on their 7’+ boards to handle all the water moving. Â Thinking this afternoon may just get better with the tide.
Here are a few photos shot over the past few days…
One of the best lefts in my neighborhood doing a lumpy version of its thing. Â The right is fun too, mostly just a big wall on days like this.
Hard to capture the size and power that a wave out here produces. Â Here is a shot of a guy on a respectable board trying to stay close to the power source.
This guy was just milking his all the way to the inside so that he can get as far as he can into the channel before paddling back out.
You’ll get the occasional section that will go top to bottom and start grinding…hard to tee it up, but if you can hang on you get a nice little slingshot action.
Some of the smaller waves had everyone sharing whether they liked it or not. Â Karma got this guy out front and he ended up face planting just after this was taken.
The other guy didn’t really have anywhere to go either.
If you were patient you could get one of these which would hold up all the way through. Â I had one on Christmas Day that put a grin from ear to ear and cleared the Eggnog fog flowing through me.
Happy New Year!! Â 2010 here we come!!