Winter in Fall

Been a wild week of big swell and wet fog, a bit like Winter weather after that hot spell last week.   I’ve been busy with life, work and healing up from a nearly broken nose and toe;  I know the toe is a weird thing.  I keep stubbing it repeatedly skating and longboarding…bad form.  Need to do more yoga and stretching in general as I drag it when I stand up.  My nose got hurt when I smacked it again with the tail of my board during a wipeout on Saturday.  The force broke the skin and bruised the base of my nose bone where the nose meets the gums.  Any lower and I would’ve knocked a tooth or two loose and any higher and my nose would have been busted for sure. I got away with a bloody nose and sore face.  I still surfed for another hour or so after it happened though.  The cold water felt good on it.  Figured I needed to chill a bit this week and recover.  It’s been 5 days since and the scab on my nose is healing and the black and blue soreness in my toe is nearly gone and so I’m itching to get wet.

Today seemed to be the first day of semi-clean waves out there.  Bigger in some parts than others, but overall looked like a ton of fun.  I had familial duties, so it was a bit painful to watch except when I saw the ocean dishing out beatings…then I didn’t feel so bad.

It’s hard to convince yourself that its not that good, especially when you are watching little gems go off unridden.

Or even ridden for that matter.  There was a tight little pack out there in the middle of the beach catching some hollow ones and it was fun to watch them extend way out onto the flats as they drove hard off the bottom.

It’s all good though.  We are expecting consistency through the weekend and next week, so plenty of waves in my future.

On a side note, I’ve started work on a new board for my younger brother.  I cut out the rough shape last night and have high hopes for this one.  Excited!!

It’s going to be a 7’6″ single fin egg.  Stoked on the shape…just hope mine comes out as clean as I want it to.  My first one I think had to be beginners luck. Want to try some color this time too…maybe some Jackson Pollack influenced goodness.  We’ll see.

Gonna put some soul into it, like the guy below.