Surf

Photo: Richard Hallman

http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=9118970&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1

Expedition to Eddistone Rock from Andy Chiz on Vimeo.

My friend sent this over to me the other day.  I wasn’t there when these guys were passing through, but had heard that Joe Curren and Dan Malloy had scored some good east coast waves while visiting a few years back.  Some great photos to be found on Joe Curren’s site.

http://mediaservices.myspace.com/services/media/embed.aspx/m=61318921,t=1,mt=video,ap=0
Watch On Surfari: Taiwan online at EZTV Links

Time traveling back to my own Eisbach Adventure in the late 90’s.  It’s a lot harder than it looks…and colder too.

Luckily its been tough to gauge size without humans to provide scale.  Such is the dilemma we all face when going for the dawn patrol.  Not uncommon to get in over your head as many of us have experienced this winter.

Came across a good post via Stoke Report‘s tweet stream that I wanted to share here.  Click this link to read about ‘Playing with the bull’.

The swell arrived yesterday in solid form.  Going from about 5ft to 10ft+ through the course of the day.

The only guy out that I could see

Drops into a solid one and charges across the face

Real smooth like

As he makes his way along, the wave starts to get a bit more exciting

Maybe a little bowly section that causes him to stall a bit

As it hits the inside bar it starts to stand up higher as he shoots down the line

Quickly making his way to the inside, for better or for worse

Starts to wall up again and being pretty far inside

Nearing the end of the ride you can start to see what will await him when he kicks out

Ho brah, need to think about an exit strategy right about now.

..he probably has no idea what’s in store for him at this point.

Kicks out of the foam and has some stacks of water to contend with…hard to tell where the sets start and end on a day like this

Just one of four sets waves to land directly on his head….all bigger than the one he was riding

Leash snapped after wave two and sends him swimming

Board recovered on the far inside and he takes one home

Feels really good to be on the sand having taken on a beast and getting a great ride and then enduring a huge four wave set on the head

Beautiful sunset that reflects the beauty, power, and darkness of the beach we call home.

Typical flow of waveriding.

Excited…

Ooh look at that

Ooh that’s nice too, am I in the right spot?

Oh yeah…compression, can’t wait to see what this one does.

anticipation

feeling good

back to the source

what a ride

kick out and look at what’s behind it.

Just a typical day of fleeting moments captured with the GoPro.