Surf

Some of you may remember the unfortunate story of big wave surfer Clint Kimmins and the events that unfolded at a LifeSaving Event down under. Well, here is his story. I think it is pretty powerful and a good reminder to never take life for granted.

I am bitter because having moved up to SF recently, I missed that swell down south in SC.  We had nothing but onshore crap…big crap up here.  I wrote a post in the Forum, way back when, talking about my fish experience down in SC with my brother.  The video footage shot by Graham Nash brought back all those memories.   The place is phenomenal when things come together.  I’m jonesin hard.  Thanks Surfline!

Puerto Escondido delivered for Santa Cruz local legend Ken ‘Skindog’ Collins as he went big this year winning both the Ride of the Year and the Monster Barrel Award at the Billabong XXL Award ceremonies this past weekend.  Check out the action here.

While we are talking about gnarly waves like Puerto, have a look at this clip from Down Under.  The Bra Boys show how its done at a place they own called ‘Ours‘.  One of the best clips I’ve seen in recent years.

These two clips will keep everything in perspective next time you paddle out.  HOOT!

Well if you think you are safe on a tow board while your boat or ski is scaring away all the wild life, think again.  Atleast, one local had an issue with it…and wasn’t scared.

Somewhere in West Australia….by the way, its always in Australia where the freak accidents with animals tend to take place…but somewhere in West Australia, a thirteen year old girl was attacked by a Sea Lion, of all creatures.  This wasn’t your normal attack either and of course not your normal thirteen year old.

You know recently a swimmer was attacked by a Sea Lion here in San Francisco and I think it bit the swimmers ankle and nibbled on her leg a bit…bite marks and such.  Well this was nothing like that, it was a full on killer attack Sea Lion type of freakish occurence.  The driver of the boat, 40 yr. old Chris Thomas said “It was really sort of movie like.  This thing just exploded in a full-on frontal attack”.

First of all the mangy beast was over 650 lbs. and was described by Chris to have leapt out of the water like those Great Whites in the National Geographic Shows.  You remember the photos showing that they can breach the water and soar to huge heights as they target their prey.  Almost reminiscent of the way killer whales like to play with their food.

Anyway, Ella Murphy was standing on her tow board being towed around when all of a sudden this giant Sea Lion leapt out of the water documentary style and latched onto her throat giving her a huge wound under her chin, breaking her jaw and knocking out a few teeth.  Chris, described as a family friend, saw the Sea Lion then circle back around and attempt a second pass at her as she lay floating in the water…luckily he was able to get between the Sea Lion and Ella to make the rescue just in time.

Chris being a veteran surfer in the area, said that he had recognized the Local as being “one of the big boys”.  “It actually lined her up” and “hit her head on”.

Luckily, young Ella is recovering nicely in a hospital and actually doesn’t look too bad considering how this sounds.  I’m sure you can all picture what this must have looked like, since we’ve all seen this happen in the movies…its usually a furry rabbit with BIG FANGS and SHARP TEETH! or a little mutt or crazy cat….but Sea Lion!!  Only in Australia.

Best wishes of a speedy recovery go out to Ella and her family and I hope Chris doesn’t have too many nightmares playing that one back in his head.  As for the Sea Lion, authorities are seeing what they can do to relocate this animal to a less trafficked area.

Well Mick Fanning is #1 in the world after winning the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast. He is in a good position now to go for his first world title. He is a rippa. I was stoked to see that news cause it motivated me to get out in the water and go for a paddle even though the surf was kinda bumpy and small. It was the best thing I’d done in about a week. I feel completely rejuvenated and had a great time. My first wave was the best one. I took off a little behind the peak, stayed high and then came down into the flats with the lip compressing into a retro styly bottom turn which thrust me out onto the shoulder and so I had to pull out a full ‘free as a bird’ style cutback with a little tweak at the end which sent my tail a sliding. I proceeded to find the little power pockets to manage about four more cutbacks, one of them being a full roundhouse. Needless to say, I was stoked and felt about as close as I could ever come to how Mick must have felt the other day as he made his way into pole position. Hoooo Brah!! The ocean is a magical thing.

I don’t know what is up with 21st birthdays in February down under, but I read another crazy bit of news yesterday about a young surfer named Sam Page, 21, of Manly. He was knocked into a coma after he was punched in the face outside Players Showgirls in Surfers Paradise last weekend.

He showed his first signs of recovery today by squeezing his mom’s hand and hugging his dad in a Gold Coast Hospital.  Bouncer Eugene White, 32, of Labrador, punched Mr Page, causing him to fall down a flight of stairs and onto the footpath – “cracking his skull” – after evicting him from the club.  What a way to make an exit!

Eugene was charged with grievous bodily harm and granted bail on various conditions, including that he not work in any licensed venue and not go to Surfers Paradise at night.  Weird restrictions placed on this guy, if you ask me….but hey, who am I to judge?

Mr Page, rated one of the country’s best young surfers, had been on the Gold Coast to compete in a major national teams surfing tournament with his Queenscliff Boardriders Club.

Now Mr. Page will be like all the rest of us that don’t have much memory of their 21st Birthday.

Terrible!

I don’t know if any of you guys know about this site SurfSessionReport.com.   Every week our friend Tom Stokes does another one of his video podcasts from the islands of Hawaii.  Last week he had Imu the surfing Pig for Chinese New Year and this week some surfing at Point Panic & Kewalo Basin. 

I find these to be pretty entertaining so I figured I would pass on the link.  I’m sure the Taiwanese contingent will appreciate Imu…Happy New Year!!

As Tom says, “Aloha, Aw-Right!”

Surfers are required to have impeccable timing and exercise good judgement to avoid getting themselves into gnarly situations. In the case of this young big wave surfer from Australia, sometimes you just get pitched into the flats and have the lip land right on top of you.

Clinton Philip Kimmins was recently found guilty on one count of unlawfully wounding a Byron Bay oyster farmer, Dru Baggaley, at a Surf Life Saving Club of all places. It happened at a birthday party and Clint, for whatever reason, lost it and stabbed Dru in the neck and back with a broken bottle.

In that one instance he threw away his professional career as one of Australia’s best big wave surfers, and landed himself in jail for 18 months. The lawyer thought it was too harsh, of course, but I was surprised it wasn’t more. I don’t know how bad the injuries were, but it didn’t sound good. He stabbed him in the back…I mean come on.

Surfing legends Kelly Slater, Taj Burrow and Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew were character witnesses for Kimmins.

I thought this was an interesting bit of news since it occured at a lifesaving event/birthday party. He stabbed the guy in the back…and neck…could have killed him…and for what? What is wrong with the Youth today? I am 33, but these damn kids make me feel old…must be that damn rap music they’re listening too! …Chuckle Chuckle. As De La says “When you hear that ‘suuuuuuuuu’ thats when the bullshit’ll start”.