Perusing Surfline and came across a clip of Timmy Reyes charging some solid OB mixed in with other locales. Â No that’s not him above; that was yesterday’s goodness.
Kenting Surf
UNGU
UNGU from Scott Soens on Vimeo.
The day was done
An amazing spectacle of natural beauty yesterday. Â Sat in front of the computer all day and then finally took a break to get some fresh air and witness a beautiful display of color that lasted all of ten minutes, if that.
The clouds had so much depth and the sky appeared to be on fire.
The crisp cold air was in stark contrast to the warm colors.
Going going
and gone…
temporarily. Â It poked back through as it sunk below the horizon.
I walked back home to get warm again and reflected on the luck of catching that beautiful series of moments that came and went so quickly. Â So focused all day that I didn’t even realize there was a little bump to be had as my reward. Â It would have been only that much better to have witnessed it from the water. Â Perhaps tomorrow.
Tearful
A collection of moments…
A collection of moments captured from the past few days.
Nuff said…
Brian Bielmann Tribute to AI
Champ10n…Congratulations Kelly!
10 World Titles…an absolute inspiration!! Â Dedication, Perseverance, Desire, Passion, Strength, Commitment, Love. Â Like surfing and art and artful surfing, no words can do it justice.
Sticking around
Swell is still here and it’s all about catching it at the right time…like my neighbor here.
Spike in Swell
Swell started to show yesterday…came a day early in fact. Â Waves were breaking as far out as the eye could see, all of the headlands had bombies peeling along its shores, Maverick’s was breaking and being ridden and all sheltered spots were going off.
Today it has started to back off a bit, and there were even a couple fearless chargers out there trying their luck on the shifty windblown peaks. Â The hot air and sun gave a false feeling of mellowness quickly dashed by the heavy water.
It was hard to not be mesmerized by the beauty and raw energy.
From the beach it’s always hard to get a full appreciation for the size and scale, shifting peaks, rips, wind intensity and other dynamic aspects of trying to surf OB when its on.
Lots to contend with. Â A true test of a waterman’s skill and perseverance.
A challenge like few others.
A bit of cat and mouse, a bit of strategy, and a zen like composure.
The last part for me, since I run out of breath quick and have to practice my breath control when its gets sizey.
As the swell drops, I’m hoping the beautiful weather sticks around.
Summertime in the city!
Bluebird Surf 