Swell is still here and it’s all about catching it at the right time…like my neighbor here.
Swell started to show yesterday…came a day early in fact. Â Waves were breaking as far out as the eye could see, all of the headlands had bombies peeling along its shores, Maverick’s was breaking and being ridden and all sheltered spots were going off.
Today it has started to back off a bit, and there were even a couple fearless chargers out there trying their luck on the shifty windblown peaks. Â The hot air and sun gave a false feeling of mellowness quickly dashed by the heavy water.
It was hard to not be mesmerized by the beauty and raw energy.
From the beach it’s always hard to get a full appreciation for the size and scale, shifting peaks, rips, wind intensity and other dynamic aspects of trying to surf OB when its on.
Lots to contend with. Â A true test of a waterman’s skill and perseverance.
A challenge like few others.
A bit of cat and mouse, a bit of strategy, and a zen like composure.
The last part for me, since I run out of breath quick and have to practice my breath control when its gets sizey.
As the swell drops, I’m hoping the beautiful weather sticks around.
Summertime in the city!
We had a great little run of warm weather and waves that lasted nearly 7 full days, and then it seemed as if Winter was upon us. Â Two weeks where we got a taste of rain and weather and then it all started to come together.
Summer came back, just in time for Halloween and our Giants to win the World Series.
This guy is punting in celebration!
So many fun peaks to choose from…right or left you can’t go wrong.
Look at how fun this is. Â I think of all the different equipment choices you could play around with, all offering up a different kind of glide.
There were some bigger sets here and there, warmish water, and bright sun. Â Was really nice to take it all in while pelicans zoomed by on the up drafts.
November 1st started off in perfect form. Â Slightly overhead sets poured in with little drainers at low tide.
How’d you like to be this guy right now?
Or this one! Â Not Â drop of water out of place.
As the swell goes up to 30 ft today, we all get a chance to slow down and reflect. Â Slowly coming down off the high from last nights big win and the string of good waves.
You gotta love this town!