Kind of missing it…even though most of the time it is just like this teaser.
So much goodness
Good surf…and the sun was even out!
One of my favorite views as I run over the dunes. As I finished up shooting some of these a guy came running over the dunes with a mini gun under his arm and gave out a little squeal when he got his first glimpses. I had to chuckle as I was a couple hours ahead of him and feeling pretty darn satiated.
I was catching mostly lefts, but I did have a couple cover ups on the rights as they made their way into the dumpy shorebreak.
Enjoy the shots and I’m looking forward to catching more of the same today.
Somewhere off the California Coast Part 3
Well it was that time of year again and off we went somewhere off the California coast. Â Happened to time it with a building south and west swell and it was beautiful.
When we arrived it was head high on the sets, the next day, Independence day, it was a few feet overhead and we got two three hour sessions, and the day after it was double overhead with exposed reef at low tide. Â The picture above isn’t even where we surfed but it was goin off nearly everywhere. Â It was hard not to draw comparisons to Indo.
The first day I surfed my first solid wood single fin shape, second day I got a bit more serious and took out my 6’2″ Aloha thruster that I picked up for $20 from a Japanese dude heading back to Japan after a winter here in SF. Â The second session on the 4th of July and the last day I rode my Kauai shaped Topper single fin given to me by a good friend who left it with me before he moved off to Costa Rica. Â I rode it with Greenough skeg which was more appropriate than I had realized at the time. Â I felt like I was channeling some 70’s legend on that thing…stayed up high and gathered a bunch of speed and then would hold a swooping carve into the flats and then do it all over again.
Independence day was the best, the sun was out, slight offshores and we even got it all to ourselves for a little bit. Â I was so stoked. Â Sure didn’t feel like California.
On the last day, we pulled up to the spot and saw about 4 other guys in the water catching some fun ones. Â We had seen and felt some of the biggest swells of the three days that night and morning as we made our way from the anchorage so we were expecting it to be much bigger. Â We jumped in the water thinking that maybe the swell direction was off or something. Â We were able to catch a few waves before the mother of all sets rolled in. Â I found myself scratching for the horizon and just barely making it under a three or four wave set from hell. Â After that set, everyone cleared the line-up and pulled up anchor. Â It was pretty classic!
It was a great way to end the trip and I cannot wait until next year!!
Somewhere off the California Coast…again!
Well as you guys know, I’ve tried my hand at shaping over the past few months. Â Made about four or five alaia’s and one solid wood single fin. Â This past holiday weekend I took the solid wood single fin out and christened it in some of the best surf I’ve had in a long time. Â I don’t have any photos to share just yet, but I will say it was reef, clear water, and I got there by boat. Â Nothing short of epic as we timed the journey perfectly to coincide with Independence day and a big south swell.
Yeah the curves aren’t perfect and the glass job is a bit wonky to say the least, hell the skeg may even be a bit crooked, but when I took off on that first wave it sure was magic.
Being that it was solid wood, it took a bit of effort to get up the speed to catch a wave, but once you get it moving it moves. Â I was even able to throw in a couple carves here and there. Â When we pulled up at the spot and I tossed it in the water the fact that it didn’t sink was pretty encouraging. Â The fact that I was able to paddle it, catch waves and turn it and even carve was amazing. Â I’m hooked and can’t wait to make my next one. Â I think I’ll study up on a few glassing techniques first though.
180South cont….
Watched the rest of 180South. Â It’s an inspiring tale that makes you want to hit the road and maybe not come back. Â Really great to see the history of how great brands like Patagonia and North Face were conceived and what they are doing to help protect the wild places that are left.
Makes me want to load up the van, strap the boards, and head out on my own adventure.
Wonderful ride following Jeff Johnson around on his adventures as he spans generational and cultural gaps, hangs with friends like Yvonne Chouinard, Doug Thompkins and Keith Malloy and finds some really tall peaks and fun surf.
You can buy it from Amazon or watch it streaming on Netflix like I did.
180 South
Watched this, or most of it last night on Netflix before the stream crapped out on me. Â Beautifully shot and a really inspiring film by the boys at Woodshed Films. Â The thought of simplifying your life so completely and going for it…whatever ‘IT’ is for you is such a romantic idea. Â This film has some great storytelling and is an attempt by Jeff Johnson to recreate a similar voyage to Patagonia as the one Yvonne Chouinard took back in 1968 in his Ford van. Â Similar in spirit that is. Â Some nice footage of surfing in Chile and some pretty killer climbing too. Â Learn more about the journey here.
180º South Trailer from Flicka Mag on Vimeo.
Future of Taiwan beaches?
Got this photo from ‘Gazza the Great’ the other day. Â Our beloved break may soon be no more.
So many good sessions along this stretch of sand. Â Looks like it may go the way of all too many beaches in parts of the world where the surf population doesn’t have the collective strength to shoot these things down.
Check some of the videos in our video section to reminisce with me.
Photo: Phil McCrackin
Wood Creations
So as I mentioned, I’ve been going down the path of teaching myself to shape. Figured starting with wood and simple designs would make the most sense. As you can see I’ve got a few Alaias of various shapes, sizes, and woods. Just playing around to see what works best from a shaping and riding perspective. Some will be just oiled and others I am going to have to glass…like the two on the right.
I used a balsa like wood known as Plumajillo for the two on the right…thanks Danny for the tip on where to get it. One is an Alaia and the other is a solid wood short board of sorts…In retrospect I would have made it more fishy or eggy, but hey, live and learn. It may go…still need to work out the rocker…so much to learn. I will need to make sure they are well sealed too. Although the simple designs are a far cry from a Wegener or Hess, they are a starting point and those guys will continue to be an inspiration for me.
Even though I’ve shaped a few now, I can hardly comprehend the craftsmanship of the masters out there. It’s a really special experience to try and shape. Requires a lot of patience and hard work, but it is very therapeutic and satisfying even when your finished product is asymmetrical, your rails come out wonky, or you have no rocker….pretty classic! Just like surfing it’s something that I don’t think you can ever truly master in all its forms…there is always something new to explore.
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Activist Workshop in SF
Thursday, June 17, from 6:00 to 9:00 pm, Environment California is helping to organize a free Activist Workshop in San Francisco. Would you like to attend?
http://www.environmentcalifornia.org/activist-workshop/free-sanfrancisco?id4=ES
The training is being run by The Public Interest Network and will feature sessions on:
- the best techniques for organizing your neighbors to take action,
- the best ways to persuade your local media to cover an issue you care about.
It’s a chance to learn, share ideas and connect with other environmentally active citizens as well as activists from other causes.
Click here for more details. I hope you can make it.
Sincerely,
Dan Jacobson
Environment California Legislative Director
http://www.environmentcalifornia.org
Bluebird Surf 