Had a good string of waves recently. Â The inspiration was watching Dane, Taj, Kelly, and Owen going off down south at Trestles. Dane’s crazy 360 air reverses on some pretty sizeable walls, Taj’s ‘drop wallet’ cutties, and Kelly and Owen just smooth as can be. Â When I got out in the water I was trying my best to channel them. Â One or Two paddle take offs, draw your line, and then open up where ever you can.
Waves were really clean and from about 2-4 ft with some punchy ones depending on the day and tide.
The waves on this swell were far better than these photos give them credit.
On the last day of the swell a morning surf check and…
A rare whale washed up.
Sad sight…such a beautiful creature.
This is all I could think of when I saw it. Â Slide and pound.
It was rumored at first that this was the same whale that ended up on the bow of the Cargo ship in Oakland, then taken back out to sea to decompose and then brought to us via the south swell. Â There was a sizeable slice in the mid-section that could have been from a rope used to drag it out to sea.
Later reports said it was a rare Sei Whale…still not sure what the official word is, but I think it’s the latter as they had guys from the Academy of Sciences taking the important pieces for the museum. Â Look who’s been dining on this guy. Â No surprise. Â Tis’ nearly Sharktober.
They buried it right in front, in a not so deep grave. Â In days of old they had a different strategy, as you can see from the video.
See below for the real video.
RIP big guy!
Our first real Winter Swell is starting to hit now. Â Just got out of the water after a 3hr sesh. Â My board hit my right below my nose on a spectacular wipeout…and I got all bloodied up. Â Stayed out though and got some great long right handers with offshore winds. Â All starting to come together.