Swell started to show yesterday…came a day early in fact. Â Waves were breaking as far out as the eye could see, all of the headlands had bombies peeling along its shores, Maverick’s was breaking and being ridden and all sheltered spots were going off.
Today it has started to back off a bit, and there were even a couple fearless chargers out there trying their luck on the shifty windblown peaks. Â The hot air and sun gave a false feeling of mellowness quickly dashed by the heavy water.
It was hard to not be mesmerized by the beauty and raw energy.
From the beach it’s always hard to get a full appreciation for the size and scale, shifting peaks, rips, wind intensity and other dynamic aspects of trying to surf OB when its on.
Lots to contend with. Â A true test of a waterman’s skill and perseverance.
A challenge like few others.
A bit of cat and mouse, a bit of strategy, and a zen like composure.
The last part for me, since I run out of breath quick and have to practice my breath control when its gets sizey.
As the swell drops, I’m hoping the beautiful weather sticks around.
Summertime in the city!