Swell is still here and it’s all about catching it at the right time…like my neighbor here.
Spike in Swell
Swell started to show yesterday…came a day early in fact. Â Waves were breaking as far out as the eye could see, all of the headlands had bombies peeling along its shores, Maverick’s was breaking and being ridden and all sheltered spots were going off.
Today it has started to back off a bit, and there were even a couple fearless chargers out there trying their luck on the shifty windblown peaks. Â The hot air and sun gave a false feeling of mellowness quickly dashed by the heavy water.
It was hard to not be mesmerized by the beauty and raw energy.
From the beach it’s always hard to get a full appreciation for the size and scale, shifting peaks, rips, wind intensity and other dynamic aspects of trying to surf OB when its on.
Lots to contend with. Â A true test of a waterman’s skill and perseverance.
A challenge like few others.
A bit of cat and mouse, a bit of strategy, and a zen like composure.
The last part for me, since I run out of breath quick and have to practice my breath control when its gets sizey.
As the swell drops, I’m hoping the beautiful weather sticks around.
Summertime in the city!
Andy Irons
Just heard this. Â Can’t believe it!
Check the link below…
http://blogs.surfermag.com/office-blog/breaking-news-andy-irons-passes-away/
Summer is Back
We had a great little run of warm weather and waves that lasted nearly 7 full days, and then it seemed as if Winter was upon us. Â Two weeks where we got a taste of rain and weather and then it all started to come together.
Summer came back, just in time for Halloween and our Giants to win the World Series.
This guy is punting in celebration!
So many fun peaks to choose from…right or left you can’t go wrong.
Look at how fun this is. Â I think of all the different equipment choices you could play around with, all offering up a different kind of glide.
There were some bigger sets here and there, warmish water, and bright sun. Â Was really nice to take it all in while pelicans zoomed by on the up drafts.
November 1st started off in perfect form. Â Slightly overhead sets poured in with little drainers at low tide.
How’d you like to be this guy right now?
Or this one!  Not  drop of water out of place.
As the swell goes up to 30 ft today, we all get a chance to slow down and reflect. Â Slowly coming down off the high from last nights big win and the string of good waves.
Ho Brah!
You gotta love this town!
Wave Sliding
Foam Dance
Foam Dance from Mark Lukach on Vimeo.
Bob Bishop’s Memorial Paddle Out
Bob’s Memorial Paddle Out was held this past weekend on the east coast of Taiwan, just up from the newly named ‘Bob’s Reef’, where the gathering was originally planned but moved due to large swell. Â It was a great turn out and the surf community came together to celebrate the life and times of a good friend, father, husband, and brother well into the wee hours of the night…or next morning in some cases.
Bob no doubt had something to do with the swell that came in the next day at the very spot the memorial was held. Â That left in the top corner was reserved for Bob.
Rest in Peace Bob! Â May you ride on and on!
Typhoon Megi…surfers rejoice!
Category 4 Typhoon with 134 mile per hour winds is sitting pretty in the South China Sea after having ravaged the Philippines leaving mass destruction in its wake. Â Gazza and I would say for typhoons with this kind of track, ‘Mass destruction in Hainan, Surfers Rejoice’. Â This one looks to be headed for Hong Kong, but should produce some stellar conditions for the boyz in Taiwan.
As horrible as it sounds, it’s true. Â When I spoke with Gazza this morning he could hardly sleep and was storm chasing down the coast to find his little piece of heaven. Hoping for some photographic proof of the goods.
Come on Gazza!! Â Wanna see that semi tractor trailer sized barrel going off at that mysto break! Â Too bad you sold your gun last week otherwise I know you’d be on it and we’d have no chance of getting any shots.
The Unseen Sea
Letter to Bob and Ohana
To Bob + Ohana, we, Duggar, Camie, Noa, Keanu wish the spirit of Bob live forever. Bob’s kindness and generosity to our Ohana is endless. Â His kokua (help) put us in the right direction. Â The word is pono ‘Do what is right’.
Mahalo Nui Loa Bob
Meke Aloha Bob
Lanakila Bob
Imua Bob
Nalu! Bob
We miss you Bob.
Aloha oe until we meet again…
Duggar
Bluebird Surf 