Quest For Fear

Grant

Grant Washburn’s latest documentary, Quest for Fear, showcasing the driving force behind the globe trotting athletes that chase massive swells from Dungeons in South Africa to our own backyard is having its theatrical premiere tonight at the Red Vic Movie House at 1727 Haight St.

Check out Grant’s site at GrantWashburn.com and here at Tall Tales Studios for more details about the film and location. The movie features music by the Mermen and since its playing all week you should have no problem with it being sold out.

Ocean Film Festival

Ocean Film Festival

Hurry to the Annual Ocean Film Festival starting this Friday.  There will be an opening party Friday night at The Aquarium on the Bay and then two solid days of films ranging in topics from Surfing to Oceanography and other exploration.  The movies will be shown at the Cowell Theater in the Fort Mason Center.

Check out www.oceanfilmfest.org for more information or call (415) 561-6251.

It will be my first time checking it out.

Swim4Life

Swim4Life

Here is a really cool event that I want to pass on to get more people involved with.  Check it out and tell your friends.

Swim 4 Life to benefit SurfAid International is your opportunity to turn a couple hours of effort into life-saving support for isolated regions of the world.

Teams and individuals register in advance and in the days and weeks before the event get sponsored by friends and family for a 30 minute swim at one of our four pool venues.

Prizes will be awarded to all participants based on their fundraising totals, and the top fundraisers, top fundraising teams, and top swimmers receive premium prizes like new surfboards, surf vacations, and high-end gear.

Sign up today for Swim 4 Life! Locations & Dates

San Diego March 29, 2008 @ 12pm:
Coggan Family Aquatic Complex in La Jolla (La Jolla H.S.)
Orange County March 30, 2008 @ 12pm:
Los Caballeros in Fountain Valley
Los Angeles April 5, 2008 @ 12pm:
Pepperdine University in Malibu
San Francisco April 12, 2008 @ 12pm:
Golden Gateway Tennis & Swim Club in San Francisco

It’s on at Mavericks!!

MavSurfer.com courtesy of Frank Quirarte

The Maverick’s Surf Contest is on this Saturday January 12th after a much anticipated wait having missed the window last year with no significant storms to speak of. This year has had some really good warm up sessions from Mavericks and Ghost Tree to Cortes Bank and Todos. Great weather is forecasted. It will be broadcast live online as well as at AT&T ball park on the jumbo trons.

Taken from the MavSurfer site:

“We cannot stress it enough, don’t try to come watch the event. You won’t be able to see anything. If you can’t resist the urge to come out and you make it through traffic, respect the coastside residents and the surrounding areas. Maverick’s is located smack dab in the center of a very eco sensitive area. Use common sense, stay on the trails and pack out all your trash and if you see any on the ground pack that out as well.”

The surfers will be in top form to tackle the large waves forecasted. Stormsurf.com is showing the swell to be between 15-18ft on the buoys, which can mean up to 60 ft faces.

Jeff Clark said a lot of the boys were headed up to Nelscott in Oregon for their third annual big wave contest put have turned around with the news of the contest being on.

Richard Hallman

Nelscott was a success last year, but I didn’t hear whether or not it was definitely on this weekend or if they were just headed there to warm up in hopes it could be on. The site hasn’t been updated in a while. Hopefully they can postpone any planned event as I think Mavericks takes precedence.

Stay tuned for what is sure to be big wave riding in Northern California at its best.

Year of the Boar in Photos

BW rights

My good friend Dante has been sending me photos and updates from Taiwan every month for most of the year. Everything from killer days on the West Coast to crap days on the East coast and vice versa.

J

He even took the time to send me photos of his trip to the Phillipines and the lineups there. I would love to post his emails too as they are a riot and always make me laugh out loud…although, he’d probably fly over and put his foot up my arse talking about Interpol…daaaamnit!!

Phillipine Sunset

Since I haven’t posted any of them for the whole year, I thought it a perfect time to do a year in photos or something to that effect, by Dante…well, all except this one where he is in front of the lens.

Dante

Check out the rippa. Raised in Santa Cruz and then tackled the North Shore before many of you readers were even born. This guy is a living legend and is still ripping it up all the way from the Maldives to the West Coast of the US of A.

Check out this photo from September of a mysto pointbreak that went unsurfed for years and was only recently discovered by a crew of burly ex pats…Dante being one of them. This is one of the better waves to be had when its on.

FK

This next photo is one of my favorites as it looks so playful and fun. Having to wear the full neoprene get up these days, it is a shot like this that reminds me of the freedom of jumping in with just your trunks, feeling the warm sun on your back, eating mangoes galore, and washing it all down with a couple pijoes.

Pocket

The Isle of Formosa is a beautiful place, sometimes you have to squint a little, but it has some real raw beauty not found in too many places anymore. I was lucky enough to experience a time when there were very few people in the water and we could discover and name new spots each weekend.

I think every one of our crew named a spot from Firsts and Seconds to Palm Point and leftovers to AK and BoardWalks. And who can forget ‘Tha harba’ or ‘Boulder Cove’. We certainly weren’t the first ones there, just ask Rene who has been there since Martial Law or other guys that were stationed there and surfing Taiwan back in the 60’s, but it sure felt like it at times.

The best sessions I’ve had there were with just a handful of friends. I think this is going to be the start of a series showcasing some of those sessions.

DW

The fact that you can still find a slice of surf paradise all to yourself is something not to be taken for granted.

BW

Dante gets much respect for being a good friend and sending me all these photos that I can share with the world, but more importantly his ninja talents of getting solo sessions in while everyone else is still sleeping and always finding that peak down the beach all to himself where he can find peace and meditation.

Thanks bro for the pics and may you be blessed with empty lineups in 2008. Happy New Year!!

BC

Hero to Zero

Anticipation

Well we went from 15 foot to about 2 foot overnight.  I awoke to knee to chest high little nuggets on New Years Day with a nice offshore wind holding up the little tubes.  Not quite enough to get excited, but a ton of people were out enjoying the beautiful San Francisco weather.  I chose to hang on the beach and fly my trainer kite with my boys.  I’m actually headed out for a surf momentarily as the swell is slowly on its way back up and the winds are going to shift onshore this afternoon.  On a time crunch now.

Still thinking about the waves from the past couple days and the beautiful sunset.  My friend Adam at NewYorkSurf.com posted a couple shots I sent over to him.  Fun to see my shots somewhere other than my own site.

Here is one of my favorites from the final moments of light in 2007.  Nice lines everywhere you looked.

Red Lines

About to go draw some lines of my own.  With more storms on the way and nearly 8 inches of rain expected in the coming days this may be my last chance to get some sunny perfection for awhile.

Seas between us braid hae roar’d

XXL

On the last day of 2007 we are blessed with blistering offshore winds and XXL surf.  Only a few were brave enough to paddle out and reap the rewards.  Often waiting close to an hour for a single chance to stroke into a beauty like this one.  The lefts were the call for the most part, but there were some beautiful rights to be had as well.

XL

The Ocean will go seemingly calm for moments and then come to life as waves stack to the horizon and pound the shores for ten minute intervals or more.  In photos it looks deceivingly mellow.

Had a fun session down south yesterday and I’m looking forward to getting wet tomorrow as the swell is supposed to drop a bit to more human sized proportions.  Until I get that 6’10” I need, my ass is on the beach with my biggest board being a 6’1″.  Don’t feel like hanging out with Davey Jones just yet.

The title of this post comes from the famous New Year’s Eve song Auld Lang Syne and although is speaking of a different kind of sea, I couldn’t resist trying to tie them together a bit.

Happy New Year!!  May the Bluebirds find you in 2008!

Hoot

Pipes, Cylinders, Kegs, and Barrels

Cylinder

That’s what we stay talkin about!!

It’s been a bit hectic leading up to the Holidays and so this swell couldn’t have had better timing. Woke up yesterday after sleeping in and took a leisurely stroll out to the beach to see pipes, cylinders, kegs, and barrels of all shapes and sizes breaking this way and that.

Offshore

It was offshore and clean and so I had to hightail it back to the house for my winter getup. I was pretty out of shape since I hadn’t surfed in about a week and was in need of some serious stretching. Sitting on the beach and stretching you could see there were some beautiful little rides to be had.

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It was deceiving as you would see some perfect peaks to be had, but of course there was always a maelstrom of whitewater between you and those waves. You have to find the perfect little rip that will suck you out.

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I have been surfing this little 6’1″, 18 1/4, 2 1/4 which is really fun when you are up and on it, but it doesn’t exactly float me very well. I keep telling myself that it keeps me in better shape and forces me to surf deeper. It took me at least ten minutes to get out a couple times when I got caught inside cause the ocean was just having its way with me. OB can be like that.

When you do get one and all the elements come together, it is magical. I went out again this morning to similar conditions and one of the guys was saying that OB is so dependent on tide, wind, current, swell direction etc and that for all of it to come together is pretty rare. It can be pretty classic and fun, but one of those elements is always messing with you.

Without a doubt there are barrels to be had and its a perfect way to start Christmas Vacation. I’m going to go catch up on Santa duties, but I’ll leave you with this last sequence.

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This morning I got some of my biggest and best barrels here in the city. I had a couple that were solid 6ft and allowed me to travel nearly 50 yards in the warbling eye. I pulled into about a dozen or so and did some serious time traveling, but didn’t make it out of any of them. I came close on two of them and then got klipped and krumpled only to come up to hoots and hollers.

Get out there and enjoy. Will some more big swell headed our way its a perfect day to get warmed up.

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Support the Third Coast…For Gazza and the Z boys…and the planet.

Great Lakes

 

EPA Sets Hearing Date for Disputed U.S. Steel Pollution Permit

Please see the info from the Alliance for the Great Lakes in this link:

http://greatlakes.org/news/111107.asp

Also see the info from the US EPA in this link:

http://www.epa.gov/region5/publiccomment/ussteel-pubmtg.htm

This pollution issue affects everyone living in the Great Lakes region, but it is especially scary for those of us who surf and swim in southern Lake Michigan waters. There are numerous surf breaks within mere miles (one within 100 feet!) of the U.S. Steel plant in Gary, Indiana, so this directly affects you!

 

In cooperation with the newly formed Surfrider Lake Michigan chapter based in Grand Haven, Michigan, Third Coast Surf Shop is calling on friends and customers throughout the southern Lake Michigan region to attend this public hearing the evening of Tuesday, December 11th at Indiana University Northwest’s Savannah Auditorium, located at 3400 Broadway Ave in Gary, Indiana. Please see the link above for all of the details.

 

Sorry…a bit late on this one.

 

Comments may also be submitted online to EPA’s Web site at http://www.epa.gov/region5/publiccomment/ussteel-pubcomment.htm#form

As surfing continues to grow into the mainstream in the Great Lakes, it is especially important that we all do our part to make a difference in helping to preserve our natural environment. This issue directly affects us and surely future generations. If you have experienced sickness of any kind from surfing near the US Steel plant, your attendance and contributions is especially needed.

Do we want our kids learning to surf in contaminated water?!

 

You do make a difference!!!

 

Check out and support Third Coast Surf Shop…those guys are gnarly. They duck dive icebergs and shit.

 

www.ThirdCoastSurfShop.com

www.GreatLakeSurfing.com