Pipes, Cylinders, Kegs, and Barrels

Cylinder

That’s what we stay talkin about!!

It’s been a bit hectic leading up to the Holidays and so this swell couldn’t have had better timing. Woke up yesterday after sleeping in and took a leisurely stroll out to the beach to see pipes, cylinders, kegs, and barrels of all shapes and sizes breaking this way and that.

Offshore

It was offshore and clean and so I had to hightail it back to the house for my winter getup. I was pretty out of shape since I hadn’t surfed in about a week and was in need of some serious stretching. Sitting on the beach and stretching you could see there were some beautiful little rides to be had.

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It was deceiving as you would see some perfect peaks to be had, but of course there was always a maelstrom of whitewater between you and those waves. You have to find the perfect little rip that will suck you out.

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I have been surfing this little 6’1″, 18 1/4, 2 1/4 which is really fun when you are up and on it, but it doesn’t exactly float me very well. I keep telling myself that it keeps me in better shape and forces me to surf deeper. It took me at least ten minutes to get out a couple times when I got caught inside cause the ocean was just having its way with me. OB can be like that.

When you do get one and all the elements come together, it is magical. I went out again this morning to similar conditions and one of the guys was saying that OB is so dependent on tide, wind, current, swell direction etc and that for all of it to come together is pretty rare. It can be pretty classic and fun, but one of those elements is always messing with you.

Without a doubt there are barrels to be had and its a perfect way to start Christmas Vacation. I’m going to go catch up on Santa duties, but I’ll leave you with this last sequence.

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This morning I got some of my biggest and best barrels here in the city. I had a couple that were solid 6ft and allowed me to travel nearly 50 yards in the warbling eye. I pulled into about a dozen or so and did some serious time traveling, but didn’t make it out of any of them. I came close on two of them and then got klipped and krumpled only to come up to hoots and hollers.

Get out there and enjoy. Will some more big swell headed our way its a perfect day to get warmed up.

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Support the Third Coast…For Gazza and the Z boys…and the planet.

Great Lakes

 

EPA Sets Hearing Date for Disputed U.S. Steel Pollution Permit

Please see the info from the Alliance for the Great Lakes in this link:

http://greatlakes.org/news/111107.asp

Also see the info from the US EPA in this link:

http://www.epa.gov/region5/publiccomment/ussteel-pubmtg.htm

This pollution issue affects everyone living in the Great Lakes region, but it is especially scary for those of us who surf and swim in southern Lake Michigan waters. There are numerous surf breaks within mere miles (one within 100 feet!) of the U.S. Steel plant in Gary, Indiana, so this directly affects you!

 

In cooperation with the newly formed Surfrider Lake Michigan chapter based in Grand Haven, Michigan, Third Coast Surf Shop is calling on friends and customers throughout the southern Lake Michigan region to attend this public hearing the evening of Tuesday, December 11th at Indiana University Northwest’s Savannah Auditorium, located at 3400 Broadway Ave in Gary, Indiana. Please see the link above for all of the details.

 

Sorry…a bit late on this one.

 

Comments may also be submitted online to EPA’s Web site at http://www.epa.gov/region5/publiccomment/ussteel-pubcomment.htm#form

As surfing continues to grow into the mainstream in the Great Lakes, it is especially important that we all do our part to make a difference in helping to preserve our natural environment. This issue directly affects us and surely future generations. If you have experienced sickness of any kind from surfing near the US Steel plant, your attendance and contributions is especially needed.

Do we want our kids learning to surf in contaminated water?!

 

You do make a difference!!!

 

Check out and support Third Coast Surf Shop…those guys are gnarly. They duck dive icebergs and shit.

 

www.ThirdCoastSurfShop.com

www.GreatLakeSurfing.com

 

 

 

Victory at Sea

Ghost Tree

Victory at Sea claimed the life of North Shore Veteran and Big Wave Charger Local Legend Peter Davi at a forbidding spot known as Ghost Tree in Monterey yesterday.  Buoys were showing around 15ft at 15 seconds which amounted to nearly 60 ft faces at Mavericks in the afternoon yesterday and most likely similar size at Ghost Tree.

Reports say he lost his board and just couldn’t make it to shore.  His unconscious body was found later by friend and Santa Cruz local Anthony Ruffo.

Sincere condolences go out to his friends and family.

Swells are expected to peak this evening and you can expect large surf on tap for the rest of the week as more swell is on the way.

Don Curry

Blowin Up

Sponsler

According to Mark Sponsler of StormSurf.com, the strongest storm of the season is headed our way and expected tomorrow Tuesday (12/4) with 55 kts winds and up to 45 ft seas targeting all of California from a very westerly direction. This to be Storm #9 of the 2007/2008 season. Heavy surf advisories are in effect.

I’m sure we will see some fine surfing go down in the next couple days. I bet most of you guys have checked out the photos of the tow teams tackling monster surf in Ireland this past week. Very impressive shots and much respect to the chargers out there pioneering some of the largest waves ever ridden in those parts. Check out SurfersVillage.com and Surfline.com for the goods on that.

Photo: Kelly Allen

Enough to get you amped for the swell hitting in our backyard.

Kill the Spill

Photo by Giovanni Agnoli

I go away for Thanksgiving and look what happens. Beaches open and OB goes off. You guys have to check out Surfline.com if you haven’t already.

The past couple weeks have been a nightmare with the environmental atrocities caused by the oil spill. I haven’t been in the water since the spill and am most impressed and appreciative of all those that came out to help.

The Kill the Spill group has done a tremendous job of bringing people together to assist in the cleanup efforts. Next week there will be an appreciation night at the Potrero Hill Sports Basement here in SF.

Check out the details below:

Kill the Spill Appreciation night

Stay tuned to ZunaSurf.com for more info….

SURF MOVIE FEATURE:
The main surf film feature TBA. We plan on preceding the film with “The Hobgood Challenge” and some other surprises.

ADMISSION:
Admission to Sports Basement is FREE. Cash registers will close at 8pm.
Movie admission TBD.

Cold Thoughts

With the Oil Spill having wreaked environmental havoc and shut down beaches, my longing for the Ocean continues to grow. This story is equally sobering, but I checked out this opening barrel ride from Timmy Turner’s latest documentary Cold Thoughts and starting dreaming of my own cold thoughts.

Vancouver Island

Check out this vid. It is a good one and aside from Timmy’s story being pretty horiffic it may be a good escape at this time. He has overcome a lot and this latest piece showcasing Vancouver Island should resonate with the Taiwan crew…many of which hail from those parts.

http://yousurftubes.magnify.net/embed/iframe/player/cid/80SGMDW42X9ZBC32

SF Bay Recovers from Oil Spill

900 Foot Disaster

San Francisco is recovering from a 58,000 gallon oil spill this week when a 900 ft. container vessel sideswiped a column of the bay bridge causing the ship to leak fuel into the bay which quickly got sucked out with the tides affecting countless lives in the area.

Glob

Surfers at Ocean Beach on Thursday and Friday complained of breathing problems after having been exposed. Beaches from China Beach to Marin are closed until the cleanup can be contained and water quality can be assessed. The birds are really some of the wildlife that will be most affected by this disaster. There have been numerous birds found dead and many more that have been rescued and taken to centers for cleanup.

Oily Beaks

The seagulls out at Ocean Beach all had oily feet and beaks from their curiosity of the oily globs that washed up in clumps.

Globs

As the drizzle came down this morning it was apparent that the birds were having a hard time. Feathers and Oil don’t mix as was apparent in the few birds standing around all with black beaks not really moving.

The Birds

So far about 8000 gallons have been collected from skimming the surface, but it is not hopeful that much more will be recovered as it seeps into the coastlines and becomes absorbed by the natural environment. The effects could last for many months if not longer.

Affected Regions

Our natural environment is so precious and we often tend to take it for granted until something like this happens.

Natural Beauty

Members of the Save the Waves Coalition and concerned residents came out the past few days to do their part in helping to clean up the beaches. Take a few moments to watch the video they put together below.

Also check out these links at ZunaSurf.com

>>>> CONTACTS & RESOURCES

o Volunteer Or Make A Donation: www.baykeeper.org. o Zuna Surf’s OilSpill Blog
o Report Oiled Wildlife: www.owcn.org | call 1-877-823-692 o SF Surfrider Chapter
o US CoastGuard San Francisco’s Updates o Surfpulse
o Residents tracking spill movements: Call private cleanup company O’Brien’s Group of Southern California at (985) 781-0804. o Damaged Property Claims:
(888) 850-8486

Silver Dragon

Hangzhou Times Cover

The stuff of legend. The Silver Dragon as it is called comes careening down the Qiantang River in Mainland China producing a wall of whitewater in most parts, but in shallow areas perfectly peeling waves. It can travel for nearly 75 miles and produce nearly a 6 hour ride for those with thighs of steel.

About a week and a half ago a small team comprised of a stand up paddler, longboarder, and jet skier challenged the Dragon riding it for over an hour and traveling over 10 miles.

Hundreds of people have perished over the years and it is illegal to conduct any water activities during the bore, but after showing the Chinese government the tourist potential that this holds there have been questions as to how this could be used to their advantage…perhaps performing on the bore in coming years.

Line Up

Photo Courtesy: Colas/Callahan

With waves like the ones above the World Record for the longest tidal bore ridden has been broken. You all may know of the ones in Brazil, France, and England but none are as large as this.

The closest I have ever gotten to surfing a tidal bore, was surfing a standing wave in Munich, Germany after a big rain. It was much harder than it looked and really fun. Some of the guys I met were doing tail slides and throwing up spray, but had never surfed in the Ocean before. Pretty trippy.

It will be interesting to see to what lengths this natural phenomenon will be explored in the future.  Maybe next time you will see 50 people riding the bore for fifty miles…stay tuned.

Lines

Photo Courtesy: Colas/Callahan

Check out more of the details about this epic ride at SurfersVillage.com.

Aussie Aussie Aussie!!!

Fanning #1

Mick Eugene Fanning clinched his maiden World Title at the recent Santa Catarina Pro in Brazil and brings it back home to Australia for the first time in eight years. He dedicated his win to his brother Sean who passed away in a car accident when they were teenagers.

I am stoked that all the hard work and dedication Mick has shown throughout the season has paid off for him. According to Pete Thomas of the LA Times, Fanning described having a dolphin out there just chilling in every heat he was in and said that it made him think that his brother, also an accomplished surfer, was not gone after all.

Both Slater and Taj were eliminated in early rounds and it will be interesting to see what this means for Slater. Will he retire as the rumors go?

Another big Aussie win was seeing Slater go down by the skegs of Rookie Kai Otton. Getting props from AI at the Arica, Chile event and now taking out Slater. What’s next for this young upstart?

Kai and AI

It is a big win for Australia and a massive accomplishment for Mick. He maintained his Pole Position since March and really earned this one. Hope this is just the beginning for the guy.

The #1 Claim