Well Mick Fanning is #1 in the world after winning the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast. He is in a good position now to go for his first world title. He is a rippa. I was stoked to see that news cause it motivated me to get out in the water and go for a paddle even though the surf was kinda bumpy and small. It was the best thing I’d done in about a week. I feel completely rejuvenated and had a great time. My first wave was the best one. I took off a little behind the peak, stayed high and then came down into the flats with the lip compressing into a retro styly bottom turn which thrust me out onto the shoulder and so I had to pull out a full ‘free as a bird’ style cutback with a little tweak at the end which sent my tail a sliding. I proceeded to find the little power pockets to manage about four more cutbacks, one of them being a full roundhouse. Needless to say, I was stoked and felt about as close as I could ever come to how Mick must have felt the other day as he made his way into pole position. Hoooo Brah!! The ocean is a magical thing.
Bounced
I don’t know what is up with 21st birthdays in February down under, but I read another crazy bit of news yesterday about a young surfer named Sam Page, 21, of Manly. He was knocked into a coma after he was punched in the face outside Players Showgirls in Surfers Paradise last weekend.
He showed his first signs of recovery today by squeezing his mom’s hand and hugging his dad in a Gold Coast Hospital. Bouncer Eugene White, 32, of Labrador, punched Mr Page, causing him to fall down a flight of stairs and onto the footpath – “cracking his skull” – after evicting him from the club. What a way to make an exit!
Eugene was charged with grievous bodily harm and granted bail on various conditions, including that he not work in any licensed venue and not go to Surfers Paradise at night. Weird restrictions placed on this guy, if you ask me….but hey, who am I to judge?
Mr Page, rated one of the country’s best young surfers, had been on the Gold Coast to compete in a major national teams surfing tournament with his Queenscliff Boardriders Club.
Now Mr. Page will be like all the rest of us that don’t have much memory of their 21st Birthday.
Terrible!
History of NY Skate Scene
I was on Skateboards.com recently and came across this little video that they had posted in their blog. Having spent a lot of time in NY, I thought I would represent by passing on the rootsy clip.
SurfSessionReport
I don’t know if any of you guys know about this site SurfSessionReport.com.  Every week our friend Tom Stokes does another one of his video podcasts from the islands of Hawaii. Last week he had Imu the surfing Pig for Chinese New Year and this week some surfing at Point Panic & Kewalo Basin.Â
I find these to be pretty entertaining so I figured I would pass on the link. I’m sure the Taiwanese contingent will appreciate Imu…Happy New Year!!
As Tom says, “Aloha, Aw-Right!”
Stupidity
Surfers are required to have impeccable timing and exercise good judgement to avoid getting themselves into gnarly situations. In the case of this young big wave surfer from Australia, sometimes you just get pitched into the flats and have the lip land right on top of you.
Clinton Philip Kimmins was recently found guilty on one count of unlawfully wounding a Byron Bay oyster farmer, Dru Baggaley, at a Surf Life Saving Club of all places. It happened at a birthday party and Clint, for whatever reason, lost it and stabbed Dru in the neck and back with a broken bottle.
In that one instance he threw away his professional career as one of Australia’s best big wave surfers, and landed himself in jail for 18 months. The lawyer thought it was too harsh, of course, but I was surprised it wasn’t more. I don’t know how bad the injuries were, but it didn’t sound good. He stabbed him in the back…I mean come on.
Surfing legends Kelly Slater, Taj Burrow and Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew were character witnesses for Kimmins.
I thought this was an interesting bit of news since it occured at a lifesaving event/birthday party. He stabbed the guy in the back…and neck…could have killed him…and for what? What is wrong with the Youth today? I am 33, but these damn kids make me feel old…must be that damn rap music they’re listening too! …Chuckle Chuckle. As De La says “When you hear that ‘suuuuuuuuu’ thats when the bullshit’ll start”.
Earthquake Island
Taiwan surfing. Killer sessions with good friends never forgotten. On tape, a reoccuring dream. Doesn’t take too long on the ROC to feel the earthquake shake either. This island seems to give so much, take its share. Stoked to be able to go back in time to firing AK point with the late Kyle Z and Terry M, aka the Mayor.
Images for this movie pieced together from old footage, as far back as the 9/21 Puli 1999 earthquake, up to last year’s typhoon season. Featured music from Taiwan foreigner bands: The Deadly Vibes, MILK, and garage band jam-out recorded with Studio D.
Check it out!
安æ±å°¼
aka redneyrude
Skegs and Channels…A progressive steering device under your board..? You decide!
Ok…well not sure what to make of this next little innovation. It looks like a science project, but It just might be the next thruster. We are certainly in one of the most unique times of experimentation in regards to board designs, materials, and fin set-ups.
Most shapers and designers in the industry would agree that it is one of the most exciting times to do what they do, since everyone is more open minded than ever. Just think, we’ve got Randy French with SurfTech.com, and hollow Carbon Fiber boards at AvisoSurf.com, and parabolic balsa composite combinations like FirewireSurfboards.com. Pretty exciting stuff.
Well enough of the suspense…check this out.
Shark Shield
For those of you living in Taiwan, this next little innovation is of no use to you. Pretty much anything that swims, walks or crawls has been tagged for food and conveniently waiting for you on a stick at your local night market. For the NorCal crew this maybe something worth having a look at. Especially if you spend anytime on pages like SurfPulse.com’s own Shark page.
So get this, a company based out of Australia known as Shark Shield Pty Ltd has released the first electronic shark deterrent system specifically designed for surfers. Weighing only 355 grams – and 80 grams in the water – the new system attaches to the tail of any surfboard.
The Shark Shield SURF generates an electrical field that is detected by the shark through its sensory receptors, known as the Ampullae of Lorenzini, found on the snouts of sharks. Once detected by the shark’s sensors, the field causes muscular spasms that result in the shark being deterred from the area.
The field is projected from electrodes in the tail of the unit that trail off the back of the surfboard, much like a legrope. This creates an elliptical field that surrounds the user with a shark safe zone that is up to eight meters in diameter.
Pretty crazy, huh?
Scientific tests, as well as observations, show the field emitted by the Shark Shield causes discomfort to the shark, which can eventually lead to muscular spasms. However, they say that once the shark leaves the area, there is no lasting detrimental effect to the shark. It just may twitch from time to time. Poor guys.
So this has actually been around since 2000 and is used by sporting, diving and fishing professionals, the Australian and US police and military, including the SAS and has also been issued with a NATO stock number….whatever that means.
The Shark Shield SURF includes deck grip, mounting plate and 240 volt charger. It is placed on the tail of the any surfboard, although the deck grip is optional. Mounting plates can be placed on numerous surfboards and the Shark Shield can then be transferred between surfboards. Legropes are easily fitted underneath the Shark Shield. It retails for $700 and is powered by a seven hour rechargeable lithium-ion battery that can be charged while driving to your favorite break.
Well Northern California is definately a breeding ground for some pretty heavy locals, but I haven’t seen any early adopters of this new device. Figured I would pass this on since it would probably make you feel good to know that your break is probably not as gnarly as some Down Under and in South Africa where the men in gray suits hunt in packs and you might actually need something like this….Yikes!
As our friend Dante would say…I don’t want to know what is down there…ignorance is bliss!
Now get out there and go for a paddle, ‘Be a Man’!…….Inside Joke!
Radical Rodents
Ok…you’ve got to see this one to believe it. RadicalRodents.com is the name of the site coming out…it’s not live yet, but you can check out a teaser video on Surfline.com. These little creatures are actually surfing real waves…well I think they are boat wakes or something, but they are actually pretty nice if you were, well…a rodent. The kind of waves you would mind surf on a flat day. The second or third wave into the video there is a rodent…perhaps a rat, on what would be like a double overhead wave if it were standing up. The cinematography angles are pretty cool…what a bizarre concept! It is classic and a must see!
Solitude
I was down at the ASR in San Diego last week and had the pleasure of meeting Shaun Tomson and getting a signed copy of his book Surfers Code for my two boys. They will appreciate it when they get older is what I told them when they looked confused at my choice of gifts to bring back for them.
If you don’t know much about this man I would highly suggest checking out the link at the bottom of the post, or even better, picking up a copy of his book. He is an exceptionally warm hearted and articulate ambassador for the artform and expression better known as ‘The Sport of Kings and Queens’. I wanted to share his Code of Ethics with everyone that is plugged into Bluebird Surf. They go as follows.
I will never turn my back on the ocean I will always paddle back out I will take the drop with commitment I will know that there will always be another wave I will realize that all surfers are joined by one ocean I will paddle around the impact zone I will never fight a riptide I will watch out for other surfers after a big set I will pass on my stoke to a non-surfer I will ride and not paddle in to shore I will a catch a wave every day, even in my mind I will honor the sport of kings |
-Shaun Tomson
At the show, all proceeds from the sales of his book went to the SurfRider Foundation. He also was involved with raising funds for SurfAidInternational.org which auctioned off a beautiful board signed by all the legends at the show, from Greg Noll to Al Merrick. So check it out on that next flat day.
You can buy it here…. Shaun Tompson – Surfer’s Code
