Just heard this. Â Can’t believe it!
Check the link below…
http://blogs.surfermag.com/office-blog/breaking-news-andy-irons-passes-away/
Just heard this. Â Can’t believe it!
Check the link below…
http://blogs.surfermag.com/office-blog/breaking-news-andy-irons-passes-away/
We had a great little run of warm weather and waves that lasted nearly 7 full days, and then it seemed as if Winter was upon us. Â Two weeks where we got a taste of rain and weather and then it all started to come together.
Summer came back, just in time for Halloween and our Giants to win the World Series.
This guy is punting in celebration!
So many fun peaks to choose from…right or left you can’t go wrong.
Look at how fun this is. Â I think of all the different equipment choices you could play around with, all offering up a different kind of glide.
There were some bigger sets here and there, warmish water, and bright sun. Â Was really nice to take it all in while pelicans zoomed by on the up drafts.
November 1st started off in perfect form. Â Slightly overhead sets poured in with little drainers at low tide.
How’d you like to be this guy right now?
Or this one!  Not  drop of water out of place.
As the swell goes up to 30 ft today, we all get a chance to slow down and reflect. Â Slowly coming down off the high from last nights big win and the string of good waves.
Ho Brah!
You gotta love this town!

Bob’s Memorial Paddle Out was held this past weekend on the east coast of Taiwan, just up from the newly named ‘Bob’s Reef’, where the gathering was originally planned but moved due to large swell. Â It was a great turn out and the surf community came together to celebrate the life and times of a good friend, father, husband, and brother well into the wee hours of the night…or next morning in some cases.
Bob no doubt had something to do with the swell that came in the next day at the very spot the memorial was held. Â That left in the top corner was reserved for Bob.
Rest in Peace Bob! Â May you ride on and on!
Category 4 Typhoon with 134 mile per hour winds is sitting pretty in the South China Sea after having ravaged the Philippines leaving mass destruction in its wake. Â Gazza and I would say for typhoons with this kind of track, ‘Mass destruction in Hainan, Surfers Rejoice’. Â This one looks to be headed for Hong Kong, but should produce some stellar conditions for the boyz in Taiwan.
As horrible as it sounds, it’s true. Â When I spoke with Gazza this morning he could hardly sleep and was storm chasing down the coast to find his little piece of heaven. Hoping for some photographic proof of the goods.
Come on Gazza!! Â Wanna see that semi tractor trailer sized barrel going off at that mysto break! Â Too bad you sold your gun last week otherwise I know you’d be on it and we’d have no chance of getting any shots.
To Bob + Ohana, we, Duggar, Camie, Noa, Keanu wish the spirit of Bob live forever. Bob’s kindness and generosity to our Ohana is endless. Â His kokua (help) put us in the right direction. Â The word is pono ‘Do what is right’.
Mahalo Nui Loa Bob
Meke Aloha Bob
Lanakila Bob
Imua Bob
Nalu! Bob
We miss you Bob.
Aloha oe until we meet again…
Duggar
What a week!! 6 straight days of sun and swell and then another day of swell but without the sun. It would hardly be fair if Aeric didn’t get a taste of the fog at some point. After a few solid days out here at OB and some really fun waves down south that will provide memories to last a lifetime.

Last full day of Aeric’s University exploring surf trip was underway as we decided to take a scenic trip down Highway 1 on our way to the birthplace of surfing in Northern California. We brought five boards from 6’2″ to 9’6″ and headed out prepared for anything that came our way.
Was pleased to find some remnant south swell mixed in at the first stop on the central coast tour. All the local legends were out, mixed in with pros and semi-pros warming up for the Cold Water Classic coming to town.
Aeric was super stoked to get out and hooting and skipping around as he tried to slip into his cold suit that never had the chance to dry all week long.
Some nice little waves were coming through as we watched Flea and then Barney showing the line-up how they do. Ratboy waxing up and the guys putting up the scaffolding for the big show. It was quite the introduction to the Westside.
With all the talent in the water, it was hard to get a wave to yourself…here’s Aeric practicing his stink eye below.
I told him if I got one that he could drop in on me so that he could get extra waves. He dropped right in on me on a good one and Flea had to regulate by giving him a little bit of stink eye and paddling super close to lay on the thick intimidation. Flea was unaware that I had given Aeric a free pass to smoke me. Pretty classic!
Charging from day one, I could tell he was in heaven with the dry hair paddle out and nice long groomed lines. A stark contrast from the punishing paddles he endured all week long up north.
Here he is on a good one…I snapped a bunch too soon and then the camera had to process so I missed the best part of this wave. He was rippin! This was on hour three too…I got out and opted to take some shots so that we’d have some proof. He caught a bunch more, but I was too busy surfing to get any on film. That’s usually the way it is though. There is usually little to no proof of the best sessions.
This shot below could be Aeric on his next visit…he got quite the education this past week. Looking forward to seeing him out here again soon.
Thought this was a very appropriate saying on the famous Santa Cruz lighthouse.
This shot below was for you Dawn. Thanks for helping him to get out here and make this trip a reality…although he hated these types of shots he was a good sport about it.
Safe flight home Aeric!! Till we ride again.
What a week!! Â Beautiful summer like weather with consistent overhead swell. Â This morning before work was greeted with the most beautiful sunrise and picturesque line-up. Â Spitting lefts and rights and sheet glass conditions. Â No pictures today of course…but we did get a dawn patrol up the beach a little yesterday that enabled me to snap a couple as I was driving off.
Nothing spectacular, but still a really nice way to wake up.
Check out the whips of choice. Â Binlang is back!!
Indian Summer once again in full effect…finally! Â Much anticipated and long awaited by me. Â Aeric Z of the Z boys fame is all grown up and in town for the week and ready to charge. Â He timed the arrival perfectly to coincide with high pressure and solid swell.
After being out of the water for about a year and having to get used to a very tight 5/4/3, he powered through the defensive line that is Pactown shorebreak. Strength and persistence paid off in the face of good sized sets pouring through and unleashing relentlessly on the sandbar at a pretty good frequency.
After a grueling decision making process he lines up a good one and gets ready to let loose.
The proof is in the smiles! Â Good times and a great warm up for the coming days.
Musings on a Life of Surf
Musings on a Life of Surf