Surf

http://c.brightcove.com/services/viewer/federated_f8/1138375875

Inspiring movie about the adventures of chasing big dead of winter swells over super shallow rock shelfs in Ireland.  Beautifully shot and worth watching here.

Thanks to Dean of YouSurfTubes.com for posting a link.

Saw some Nooks and Crannies breaking the past few days that I have yet to explore and it got me thinking of all the possibilities. Check out the above video for a sampling of some of what’s out there at the right time and if you want it.

When the fog rolls in, with it, arrives a certain peace.  A nourishing embrace that quiets and calms.  

The past few weeks has brought fairly extreme weather as we went from heat waves with light offshores to days where the 40 knot winds literally closed roads and peeled paint from houses to cool and calm days like this weekend where the fog seeps over the hills and the rain comes and goes.  Its nice to have so much variety and for me it is essential.  I see it as natures way of making me more aware of our connection and how it is always in charge.  When the fog rolls we may sleep a little later, take care of our domestic duties a bit more, and overall pay more attention to the little things that oft pass us by as we speed through life.

Sometimes I find myself revolting against the natural cycles of the sea here and hightailing it a bit North or South to experience a different perspective.  Living near the Ocean here it often doesn’t take much to escape the elements.  Just a short drive can bring you to an altogether different micro climate.  That is exactly what happened to me last weekend when I ventured out of the fog.

A short drive led me to some fun little waves just out of the fog bank and into what felt like a little taste of summer time.  People out and about, bbq’s on the beach, traffic, and bikinis were all waiting just outside the foggy cocoon I had been in.  The sun was beaming and if it weren’t for the occasional cool misty wind to remind me of where I had just come from, it might not have been so enjoyable.

There were some fun little waves to be had.  Some little peaks that broke left and right with a zippy exuberance that entertained a small group of both beginners and more advanced sliders that seemed to enjoy the challenge of navigating the flailing bodies.

My boyz came along for the trip and had a blast doing the boogie in the shorebreak.  I joined them for a bit of laydown action and found myself chuckling at their pure joy and enthusiasm as we raced toward shore together.  As they played inside I was able to catch a few standing up as well…which always feels good.  Three to the beach at least.  

We bodysurfed, boogied (as they like to call it), surfed, scaled rocks on the beach, lounged around taking in the sights, and when it was time to go we all had to drag ourselves away.  The only motivator was the rumble in our bellies.  After a short pitstop for some grub and a cool beer for me we were off headed back into our misty cocoon that soothed our sunburned faces.

The trees on our way back home seemed to be peering out at us showing more of themselves as we neared.  It was invigorating and at the same time quieting and comforting to be entering back into the weather. 

This weekend was more of the same as we faded between fog, wind and rain with various combinations of the three.  This time there was no escape, but I didn’t need it either.  I managed to get a little paddle in yesterday and was literally the only guy out.  Got three to the beach…a couple fun lefts and one smaller right before drifting enough to make for a healthy jog back to where I started.  

Looking at all the crooked trees and weathered houses made me realize just how much the elements shape us both inside and out.  Be always thankful for our connectedness through gifts the ocean brings.

Uncharacteristic offshore conditions this past weekend.  Saturday looked good in the morning, but then wind shifted and it got a bit funky.  Sunday was back in good form, but much smaller.  These shots were taken Sunday before the swell picked back up.

Yesterday was the day.  Check out StokeReport.com to see some of the goods.  He got some nice ones.  I didn’t get out until the evening and it was a bit bigger but not nearly as clean.  Got to be on it.

Well a bit pessimistic, but feeling a bit like the sun is setting on the surf season.  With this being the last week of the Eddie waiting period and only another month for the Mavericks Contest the lack of fair conditions is already apparent at my local break.  

Rain, yes, which is good, but also wind and just wrong conditions.  Such is life this time of year.  March rolls around and its more common to see waves in the sand than in the Ocean.  Hope there is still some love left in that big ole’ North Pacific.

After a very frustrating bout trying to upload a higher quality version to YouTube I have given up for now…so bare with this low quality version.  It still may be a bit entertaining with the right perspective.  All the world is green after all!

So unlike other surf vids, mine are kind of slapped together.  I hate using a tripod, cause I am usually surfing when its good and so the video becomes an after thought.  I have to try actually to take my time on the next one, maybe use a tripod, get a higher quality version going, maybe spend more than an hour editing it.   Or not.  My vids are kind of like a brain dump….just spur of the moment, slap stuff together and see if it sticks.

What is unique about this one is that it was shot almost exclusively with the Go Pro.  It’ll be interesting to see how creative people get with their own GoPro’s.  Every time I paddle out I see someone with a wrist cam or plate on their boards.  So much good footage out there I’m sure.  I kind of like the quality too, almost super 8 ish.

Well anyway, enjoy if you can.

Is anyone else out there a fan of Tom Waits?  Brilliant is the word that comes to mind.  Sort of like the experiences we seek everytime we suit up and paddle out.  Some can be beautiful, magical and others dark and painful…grueling even.  At least here at OB.

The site has been down for the past couple weeks due to some mischief makers, which gave me some time to think about improvements and play around with some old video from last month.  

I was able to pull out some cool frame grabs and then tonight put the finishing touches on a shaky, but interesting session…well couple sessions…from dawn to dusk.  I believe it was around January 18th when we were blessed with summer like weather and big swell.  Got a dawn patrol, then an afternoon sesh and topped it off shooting some video with a bottle of wine up on the dunes for the evening sunset sesh.  

Coming soon…the first video I’ve produced in a long time…tripod free and shaky as usual.  Need to work on that.  Stay tuned.

Well I was happy to see the winds die and the sun come out.  Hope for a surf after what feels like months of not having gotten wet.  Then we get a poo spill.  A massive one at that.  I read in a couple places 3 million gallons, but most sources are only reporting half a million gallons of sewage.

No mention of whether or not this has made it out to my local break, but was kind of hesitant with all the run off from the rains we’ve been getting for the past couple weeks anyway.  Now this.

I walked out to check the surf this morning and it was about head high and offshore with about ten guys or so scattered along the mile stretch or so I checked.  Braver than me, that’s for sure.  I think I will give it a few more days before I jump in.  It wasn’t that good anyway.