The Road to J-Shui

Dawn Patrol

Jialoshui, affectionately referred to as J-Shui bares little resemblance to J-Bay, but had a nice ring to it when I think Andoni started calling it that. The only similarity between the wave in S. Africa was that they are both right handers, as you can see.

Andoni at J-Shui

For many years, it was ‘the’ spot in Southern Taiwan. It was the most easily accessible and consistently rideable east coast wave in Taiwan and quickly became a meeting place for the surf community living in the southern west half of the island.

We would go there sometimes and not a soul would be around. You could surf your brains out, walk down into the little town and get some coconut milk, fried chicken and rice, squid on a stick and all sorts of other tasty delights.

My preferred mode of transportation for getting from the city to the south was my trusty Kymco Easy Rider.

Kymco

Many long miles were put on that bike. From Jungle heat to torrential downpours to typhoon winds, we weathered it all. Not to mention the crazy mountain roads, which were actually safer on a motorcycle, believe it or not.

Once you arrived, you would rock up to Gazza’s place and strap the boards and you were off to make your rounds and pick up the rest of the boyz.

Early

It was always a good time. We’d sometimes have six guys in the beat up caddy with a tower of boards stacked on the roof blowing sideways. Whisbey and Binlang going around. We’d bottom out and sparks would fly.

We’d be so stoked talking about what we thought the WAP charts would translate to. If we were lucky we’d have the waves all to ourselves with fun conditions.

Typhoon perfection

One of the youngest surfers out there at J-Shui was Gu-Gu. I can remember when he was probably 11 or 12 yrs old, but looked about 8 yrs. old with his crimson board. He would sit in the rivermouth catching little peelers and was so stoked.

Gu Gu

The solo sessions were good to. My brother came to visit and we had the beach to ourselves for the whole day with overhead surf and beautiful sunshine.

Jshui bro

We’d surf till we couldn’t stand up and then pig out and hit the hot springs in the evening with friends.

J-Shui was where it all started and ended in those days. The place would fluctuate between really perfect and really crap. As the years went on, it became more and more popular for longboarders and beginners because of the channel and slow waves.

Me carvin

During Typhoon season it would perk up a bit and if you timed it right, you could secure your own little slice of heaven. Here is a shot from last Typhoon season with one lucky guy getting it good.

J perfect

After the typhoon rains the river would push out this incredible sand bar and you’d just have to wait for the swells to start coming in and you’d be laughing and hooting.

J bar

Here is another shot of that same lucky guy that was in the right place at the right time.

Perfection

Nowadays it can get downright dangerous in the water with all the new surfers as J-Shui has become like the Malibu of Taiwan. The place is rideable from knee high to about double overhead before it starts to get pretty funky. It is the starting point for anyone going to the southern part of the Island and will always be just a taste of what the island has to offer in terms of waves and otherwise.

J-Shuiness

If you want a great place to eat and stay that is well positioned to hit all spots on the southern tip…see my man Terry aka ‘Tha Meystro’ in Hengchuen.

Also check out the J-Shui video here.

Sleep through the Static

Sleep through the Static

I bought this album a couple weeks back in NY and listened to it on the way back from the airport. After traveling through the chaos of the Verrazzano, the mayhem of Times Square, the edginess of Harlem and the dated industry of Brooklyn it was nice to come home to green trees, rolling hills, and a nice head high swell running with the peaceful sounds of Sleep through the Static on the stereo. My initial reaction was that the album was too soft. One thing I can say about Jack’s music is that it seems the more I listen to his music the more I get to like it. I feel that he is so unique and original and true to what he is which is something lacking in today’s music scene.

After listening to it a few more times there are still a few songs that seem a bit sappy but they have such a positive and good natured vibe that you’ve gotta like them. Even when he is singing about sad truths there is some powerful sense of hope that seeps through.

I have a ton of respect for Jack Johnson, not only as a gifted musician, but also filmmaker, surfer, environmentalist, and all around humanitarian.

Some of the tracks I’m digging are Hope, Enemy, What You Thought You Need, and the byaow sound in Losing Keys. I’m appreciating them all though. His music helps you to slow down and appreciate life. Appreciate the moment! Appreciate the beauty and make you want to move like a jellyfish.

Check out his site here. Definitely pick up a copy for yourself. He is a great ambassador for simplicity and helps you to remain cognizant of what is really important.

Rippa

Summertime in February

Hook

Had a really fun day of surf this past weekend. Felt like summer in February. It was sunny with an overhead swell running, bright greenish turquoise water, and the crowds were right. Traveled down south on a building WNW swell and got to ride my soul fish that I busted up a month or two earlier surfing Steamers on an equally gorgeous day. The photo above is down the point from where me and my friend Ted surfed and as you can see looked pretty good.

Had some nice rides, felt totally out of shape but loved every minute of it. Surfed till I was sloppy and could barely paddle.

The session before this one I was surfing some punchy little shorebreak and snapped my board that I have had for about 6 years. My first surftech that has been all over SE Asia with me.

Broke

It was kind of sad to see it go, but also kind of cool that it snapped right beneath me while duck diving. I was glad it didn’t just get old and fall into disuse. It went out in style! The wave wasn’t even that big, but the energy of it went straight through my body into the board and SNAP. Came up after a violent shaking to find my leash attached to some skegs….while the rest of my board was traveling off in a rip.

I have this thing with running my boards into the ground, so now I have a reason to add a new one to my quiver when the time is right. I have been eyeing these Bulkley’s from Mollusk.

Bulkley

Now I have a reason to spend more time in that shop. It’s like a candy store!

Quest For Fear

Grant

Grant Washburn’s latest documentary, Quest for Fear, showcasing the driving force behind the globe trotting athletes that chase massive swells from Dungeons in South Africa to our own backyard is having its theatrical premiere tonight at the Red Vic Movie House at 1727 Haight St.

Check out Grant’s site at GrantWashburn.com and here at Tall Tales Studios for more details about the film and location. The movie features music by the Mermen and since its playing all week you should have no problem with it being sold out.

Ocean Film Festival

Ocean Film Festival

Hurry to the Annual Ocean Film Festival starting this Friday.  There will be an opening party Friday night at The Aquarium on the Bay and then two solid days of films ranging in topics from Surfing to Oceanography and other exploration.  The movies will be shown at the Cowell Theater in the Fort Mason Center.

Check out www.oceanfilmfest.org for more information or call (415) 561-6251.

It will be my first time checking it out.

Swim4Life

Swim4Life

Here is a really cool event that I want to pass on to get more people involved with.  Check it out and tell your friends.

Swim 4 Life to benefit SurfAid International is your opportunity to turn a couple hours of effort into life-saving support for isolated regions of the world.

Teams and individuals register in advance and in the days and weeks before the event get sponsored by friends and family for a 30 minute swim at one of our four pool venues.

Prizes will be awarded to all participants based on their fundraising totals, and the top fundraisers, top fundraising teams, and top swimmers receive premium prizes like new surfboards, surf vacations, and high-end gear.

Sign up today for Swim 4 Life! Locations & Dates

San Diego March 29, 2008 @ 12pm:
Coggan Family Aquatic Complex in La Jolla (La Jolla H.S.)
Orange County March 30, 2008 @ 12pm:
Los Caballeros in Fountain Valley
Los Angeles April 5, 2008 @ 12pm:
Pepperdine University in Malibu
San Francisco April 12, 2008 @ 12pm:
Golden Gateway Tennis & Swim Club in San Francisco

It’s on at Mavericks!!

MavSurfer.com courtesy of Frank Quirarte

The Maverick’s Surf Contest is on this Saturday January 12th after a much anticipated wait having missed the window last year with no significant storms to speak of. This year has had some really good warm up sessions from Mavericks and Ghost Tree to Cortes Bank and Todos. Great weather is forecasted. It will be broadcast live online as well as at AT&T ball park on the jumbo trons.

Taken from the MavSurfer site:

“We cannot stress it enough, don’t try to come watch the event. You won’t be able to see anything. If you can’t resist the urge to come out and you make it through traffic, respect the coastside residents and the surrounding areas. Maverick’s is located smack dab in the center of a very eco sensitive area. Use common sense, stay on the trails and pack out all your trash and if you see any on the ground pack that out as well.”

The surfers will be in top form to tackle the large waves forecasted. Stormsurf.com is showing the swell to be between 15-18ft on the buoys, which can mean up to 60 ft faces.

Jeff Clark said a lot of the boys were headed up to Nelscott in Oregon for their third annual big wave contest put have turned around with the news of the contest being on.

Richard Hallman

Nelscott was a success last year, but I didn’t hear whether or not it was definitely on this weekend or if they were just headed there to warm up in hopes it could be on. The site hasn’t been updated in a while. Hopefully they can postpone any planned event as I think Mavericks takes precedence.

Stay tuned for what is sure to be big wave riding in Northern California at its best.

Year of the Boar in Photos

BW rights

My good friend Dante has been sending me photos and updates from Taiwan every month for most of the year. Everything from killer days on the West Coast to crap days on the East coast and vice versa.

J

He even took the time to send me photos of his trip to the Phillipines and the lineups there. I would love to post his emails too as they are a riot and always make me laugh out loud…although, he’d probably fly over and put his foot up my arse talking about Interpol…daaaamnit!!

Phillipine Sunset

Since I haven’t posted any of them for the whole year, I thought it a perfect time to do a year in photos or something to that effect, by Dante…well, all except this one where he is in front of the lens.

Dante

Check out the rippa. Raised in Santa Cruz and then tackled the North Shore before many of you readers were even born. This guy is a living legend and is still ripping it up all the way from the Maldives to the West Coast of the US of A.

Check out this photo from September of a mysto pointbreak that went unsurfed for years and was only recently discovered by a crew of burly ex pats…Dante being one of them. This is one of the better waves to be had when its on.

FK

This next photo is one of my favorites as it looks so playful and fun. Having to wear the full neoprene get up these days, it is a shot like this that reminds me of the freedom of jumping in with just your trunks, feeling the warm sun on your back, eating mangoes galore, and washing it all down with a couple pijoes.

Pocket

The Isle of Formosa is a beautiful place, sometimes you have to squint a little, but it has some real raw beauty not found in too many places anymore. I was lucky enough to experience a time when there were very few people in the water and we could discover and name new spots each weekend.

I think every one of our crew named a spot from Firsts and Seconds to Palm Point and leftovers to AK and BoardWalks. And who can forget ‘Tha harba’ or ‘Boulder Cove’. We certainly weren’t the first ones there, just ask Rene who has been there since Martial Law or other guys that were stationed there and surfing Taiwan back in the 60’s, but it sure felt like it at times.

The best sessions I’ve had there were with just a handful of friends. I think this is going to be the start of a series showcasing some of those sessions.

DW

The fact that you can still find a slice of surf paradise all to yourself is something not to be taken for granted.

BW

Dante gets much respect for being a good friend and sending me all these photos that I can share with the world, but more importantly his ninja talents of getting solo sessions in while everyone else is still sleeping and always finding that peak down the beach all to himself where he can find peace and meditation.

Thanks bro for the pics and may you be blessed with empty lineups in 2008. Happy New Year!!

BC

Hero to Zero

Anticipation

Well we went from 15 foot to about 2 foot overnight.  I awoke to knee to chest high little nuggets on New Years Day with a nice offshore wind holding up the little tubes.  Not quite enough to get excited, but a ton of people were out enjoying the beautiful San Francisco weather.  I chose to hang on the beach and fly my trainer kite with my boys.  I’m actually headed out for a surf momentarily as the swell is slowly on its way back up and the winds are going to shift onshore this afternoon.  On a time crunch now.

Still thinking about the waves from the past couple days and the beautiful sunset.  My friend Adam at NewYorkSurf.com posted a couple shots I sent over to him.  Fun to see my shots somewhere other than my own site.

Here is one of my favorites from the final moments of light in 2007.  Nice lines everywhere you looked.

Red Lines

About to go draw some lines of my own.  With more storms on the way and nearly 8 inches of rain expected in the coming days this may be my last chance to get some sunny perfection for awhile.

Seas between us braid hae roar’d

XXL

On the last day of 2007 we are blessed with blistering offshore winds and XXL surf.  Only a few were brave enough to paddle out and reap the rewards.  Often waiting close to an hour for a single chance to stroke into a beauty like this one.  The lefts were the call for the most part, but there were some beautiful rights to be had as well.

XL

The Ocean will go seemingly calm for moments and then come to life as waves stack to the horizon and pound the shores for ten minute intervals or more.  In photos it looks deceivingly mellow.

Had a fun session down south yesterday and I’m looking forward to getting wet tomorrow as the swell is supposed to drop a bit to more human sized proportions.  Until I get that 6’10” I need, my ass is on the beach with my biggest board being a 6’1″.  Don’t feel like hanging out with Davey Jones just yet.

The title of this post comes from the famous New Year’s Eve song Auld Lang Syne and although is speaking of a different kind of sea, I couldn’t resist trying to tie them together a bit.

Happy New Year!!  May the Bluebirds find you in 2008!

Hoot